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Lot #2184

ROLEX RED SUBMARINER 1680 MK4 GHOST BEZEL BOX AND PAPERS

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Introduction

Debuting in 1953 and released to the public the following year, the Rolex Submariner has undoubtedly become one of the most iconic timepieces of all time thanks to its legendary status as Rolex's flagship dive watch. Used extensively by the British Royal Navy and professional diving operations like COMEX, the Submariner set the bar for all dive watches to follow. Featuring a genuinely timeless design that has remained relatively unchanged throughout its history, the Rolex has become the archetypal sports watch. With very few large-scale aesthetic upgrades made to it over the years except for timely advancements like introducing a date function to the collection in the late '60s, and its modern cerachrom bezels, the Submariner is seen as the prototypical dive watch thanks to its consistency. The Submariner has earned its status as a legendary watch, with it today remaining as one of the most sought-after timepieces around.

Released around 1967, the Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 marked a change of direction for the famed Genevan watchmaker. While tool watches had long been Rolex's focus during the 1950s, Submariner ref. 1680 announced Rolex's intention to cater to a new, larger market. The ref. 1680's new date function marked Rolex's true recognition that their watches had become an accessory worn by those that did not need Rolex's impressive tool-watch capabilities but rather everyday conveniences. The first production examples of the ref. 1680 were denoted by their red "Submariner" inscription, which was later phased out for white text by 1973, in keeping with the rest of the dial's design. An essential piece of horological history, the Submariner ref. 1680 "Red" sowed the seed for what would become the archetypal Submariner – the Submariner Date, a fact that collectors continue to appreciate as the ref. 1680 continues to skyrocket in desirability.

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Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Box and Papers

Est. value range

$20,000 – $30,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

40mm x 14.7mm

Model

Submariner

Movement

Automatic cal. 1570

Reference

1680

Bracelet

Stainless Steel Oyster bracelet

Year

1971

Condition

Excellent

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch, box, papers, hang tags and accessories

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL

The hands and dial luminous have aged to a perfect creamy shade of yellow and the Mk 4 dial is free from any visible blemishes or imperfections with its red 'Submariner' inscription standing tall on its black backdrop.

THE AESTHETIC

Featuring a uniquely aged bezel insert that has taken on a light grey color in contrast to its still-dark black dial, this ref. 1680's aesthetic is entirely unique to this example.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

In very nice original and well preserved condition. The case with nice proportions and some surface wear visible which is consistent with its age. The dial has lots of character and the lumes have all aged consistently to a nice warm ivory patina. The tritium hands have light oxidation and are slightly lighter than the dial luminous. The bracelet is an original 9135 folded link oyster fliplock band, showing light stretch. It has 11 links total. The watch is also still retaining is box, Guarantee, booklets and swing tag. The top half of the serial numbers between the lugs are partially worn out due to rubbing from the endpiece, but the numbers can all be made out and they match the original certificate.

Our Perspective

We consider the ref. 1680 Red Submariner to be one of the foundational pieces of any vintage Rolex collection with its distinctive red 'Submariner' inscription and on account of the reference introducing the now-iconic date function to the collection.

Eric Ku

Co-founder