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Lot #3569

Rolex Red Submariner 1680 Mk5 DIal

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Introduction

Debuting in 1953 and released to the public the following year, the Rolex Submariner has undoubtedly become one of the most iconic timepieces of all time thanks to its legendary status as Rolex's flagship dive watch. Used extensively by the British Royal Navy and professional diving operations like COMEX, the Submariner set the bar for all dive watches to follow. Featuring a genuinely timeless design that has remained relatively unchanged throughout its history, the Rolex has become the archetypal sports watch. With very few large-scale aesthetic upgrades made to it over the years except for timely advancements like introducing a date function to the collection in the late '60s, and its modern cerachrom bezels, the Submariner is seen as the prototypical dive watch thanks to its consistency. The Submariner has earned its status as a legendary watch, with it today remaining as one of the most sought-after timepieces around.

Released around 1967, the Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 marked a change of direction for the famed Genevan watchmaker. While tool watches had long been Rolex's focus during the 1950s, Submariner ref. 1680 announced Rolex's intention to cater to a new, larger market. The ref. 1680's new date function marked Rolex's true recognition that their watches had become an accessory worn by those that did not need Rolex's impressive tool-watch capabilities but rather everyday conveniences. The first production examples of the ref. 1680 were denoted by their red "Submariner" inscription, which was later phased out for white text by 1973, in keeping with the rest of the dial's design. An essential piece of horological history, the Submariner ref. 1680 "Red" sowed the seed for what would become the archetypal Submariner – the Submariner Date, a fact that collectors continue to appreciate as the ref. 1680 continues to skyrocket in desirability.

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Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Inner Rolex Box

Est. value range

$10,000 – $15,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

40mm x 14.7mm

Model

Submariner

Movement

Automatic cal. 1570

Reference

1680

Bracelet

Stainless steel Oyster bracelet

Year

1974

Condition

Excellent

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch and box

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Featuring the elusive red "Submariner" inscription on its dial, this ref. 1680 Red Submariner's hands and luminous markers have developed a stunning creamy shade that give this beautifully-preserved example plenty of character and intrigue.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

Presented in excellent condition throughout but boasting an aged look through its black aluminum bezel insert and dial, this example merges the Submariner's timeless design with a vintage wrist presence.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

The case is in excellent condition, with some surface scratches and signs of previous polishing around the lugs and there is some endlink rub on the back the lugs. The case back is in excellent condition, and the bezel is well-defined. The bezel insert is generally excellent, though the pearl is damaged. The black Mk5 dial is in excellent condition, featuring crisp text and nicely toned lume. The hand lume shows some discoloration in places. The watch is fitted with a solid link Oyster bracelet, complete with a diver extension, which has 11 links (1 removable) and fits an approximately 7" wrist. The watch comes with a later Rolex box.

Our Perspective

We consider the 1680 Submariner to be one of the foundational pieces of any vintage Rolex collection. With its important role in the Submariner's evolution, the ref. 1680 marked the beginning of the Submariner's role in everyday life as a watch that could tackle anything - a reputation that it still holds to this day.

Eric Ku

Co-founder