Introduction
Debuting in 1953 and released to the public the following year, the Rolex Submariner has undoubtedly become one of the most iconic timepieces of all time thanks to its legendary status as Rolex's flagship dive watch. Used extensively by the British Royal Navy and professional diving operations like COMEX, the Submariner set the bar for all dive watches to follow. Featuring a genuinely timeless design that has remained relatively unchanged throughout its history, the Rolex has become the archetypal sports watch. With very few large-scale aesthetic upgrades made to it over the years except for timely advancements like introducing a date function to the collection in the late '60s, and its modern cerachrom bezels, the Submariner is seen as the prototypical dive watch thanks to its consistency. The Submariner has earned its status as a legendary watch, with it today remaining as one of the most sought-after timepieces around.
Released around 1967, the Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 marked a change of direction for the famed Genevan watchmaker. While tool watches had long been Rolex's focus during the 1950s, Submariner ref. 1680 announced Rolex's intention to cater to a new, larger market. The ref. 1680's new date function marked Rolex's true recognition that their watches had become an accessory worn by those that did not need Rolex's impressive tool-watch capabilities but rather everyday conveniences. The first production examples of the ref. 1680 were denoted by their red "Submariner" inscription, which was later phased out for white text by 1973, in keeping with the rest of the dial's design. An essential piece of horological history, the Submariner ref. 1680 "Red" sowed the seed for what would become the archetypal Submariner – the Submariner Date, a fact that collectors continue to appreciate as the ref. 1680 continues to skyrocket in desirability.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Inner Rolex Box
Est. value range
$10,000 – $15,000
The Details
Brand
Rolex
Dimensions
40mm x 14.7mm
Model
Submariner
Movement
Automatic cal. 1570
Reference
1680
Bracelet
Stainless steel Oyster bracelet
Year
1974
Condition
Excellent
Material
Stainless steel
Included
Watch and box
Dial Color
Black
![THE DIAL](https://cdn.sanity.io/images/j0ua8uvr/production/fe4be3dbb6f1b4212e21a22b1f26ce2e0c7e0c2c-2400x2400.jpg?w=3840&q=100&fit=clip&auto=format)
THE DIAL
Featuring the elusive red "Submariner" inscription on its dial, this ref. 1680 Red Submariner's hands and luminous markers have developed a stunning creamy shade that give this beautifully-preserved example plenty of character and intrigue.
![THE CONSTRUCTION](https://cdn.sanity.io/images/j0ua8uvr/production/d4b7ba912c9eec27623ec039f825d1e7684696dc-2400x2400.jpg?w=3840&q=100&fit=clip&auto=format)
THE CONSTRUCTION
Presented in excellent condition throughout but boasting an aged look through its black aluminum bezel insert and dial, this example merges the Submariner's timeless design with a vintage wrist presence.
![TIMING MACHINE READOUT](https://cdn.sanity.io/images/j0ua8uvr/production/958549a85d2349a9aaa5b904d7077132c79944c2-750x750.jpg?w=3840&q=100&fit=clip&auto=format)
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
The case is in excellent condition, with some surface scratches and signs of previous polishing around the lugs and there is some endlink rub on the back the lugs. The case back is in excellent condition, and the bezel is well-defined. The bezel insert is generally excellent, though the pearl is damaged. The black Mk5 dial is in excellent condition, featuring crisp text and nicely toned lume. The hand lume shows some discoloration in places. The watch is fitted with a solid link Oyster bracelet, complete with a diver extension, which has 11 links (1 removable) and fits an approximately 7" wrist. The watch comes with a later Rolex box.
Our Perspective
We consider the 1680 Submariner to be one of the foundational pieces of any vintage Rolex collection. With its important role in the Submariner's evolution, the ref. 1680 marked the beginning of the Submariner's role in everyday life as a watch that could tackle anything - a reputation that it still holds to this day.