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Lot #3325

Rolex Red Submariner 1680 Service Luminova Dial with Accessories

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Introduction

Debuting in 1953 and released to the public the following year, the Rolex Submariner has undoubtedly become one of the most iconic timepieces of all time thanks to its legendary status as Rolex's flagship dive watch. Used extensively by the British Royal Navy and professional diving operations like COMEX, the Submariner set the bar for all dive watches to follow. Featuring a genuinely timeless design that has remained relatively unchanged throughout its history, the Rolex has become the archetypal sports watch. With very few large-scale aesthetic upgrades made to it over the years except for timely advancements like introducing a date function to the collection in the late '60s, and its modern cerachrom bezels, the Submariner is seen as the prototypical dive watch thanks to its consistency. The Submariner has earned its status as a legendary watch, with it today remaining as one of the most sought-after timepieces around.

Released around 1967, the Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 marked a change of direction for the famed Genevan watchmaker. While tool watches had long been Rolex's focus during the 1950s, Submariner ref. 1680 announced Rolex's intention to cater to a new, larger market. The ref. 1680's new date function marked Rolex's true recognition that their watches had become an accessory worn by those that did not need Rolex's impressive tool-watch capabilities but rather everyday conveniences. The first production examples of the ref. 1680 were denoted by their red "Submariner" inscription, which was later phased out for white text by 1973, in keeping with the rest of the dial's design. An essential piece of horological history, the Submariner ref. 1680 "Red" sowed the seed for what would become the archetypal Submariner – the Submariner Date, a fact that collectors continue to appreciate as the ref. 1680 continues to skyrocket in desirability.

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Grade

V 8

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch, booklets, caseback sticker and hang tag

Est. value range

$10,000 – $15,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

40mm

Model

Submariner

Movement

Automatic cal. 1570

Reference

1680

Bracelet

Stainless steel Oyster bracelet

Year

1971

Condition

Very Good

Material

Stainess steel

Included

Watch, booklets, caseback sticker and hang tag

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Fitted with a rare service dial that is seldom seen on the market and quite hard to find, this example's black display is indeed reminiscent of how the ref. 1680 would have looked straight after it was originally purchased, with its red script being bright and punchy, and its indices and hands being bright white.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

Featuring a pristine black bezel insert and a well-preserved case, this example's construction wears on the wrist beautifully and serves to showcase the early Submariner's design in an honest manner.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in very good overall condition. Case has wear visible on its surfaces, and the lugs no longer have a chamfered edge. There are a few small dings and marks visible on some of the edges and surfaces. The watch is fitted with a rare luminova service dial with Submariner in red. These were available for only a short period of time and while service, are rare in their own right. The watch has also been fitted with a new crown and tube, as well as service bezel insert and luminova hands. The watch comes on a later solid oyster bracelet with 12 links total, 2 of which are removable. It fits a 7 1/2" wrist and shows little stretch. The watch comes with its hang tag with serial number as well as green plastic folder with caseback sticker affixed on it.

Our Perspective

Belonging in any Rolex aficionado's collection with its classic dial design and charming vintage construction bringing plenty of character to the watch whether it's on or off your wrist, the ref. 1680 is an iconic piece of the Submariner's history.

Eric Ku

Co-founder