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Lot #1042

Rolex Red Submariner 1680 MK4

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Introduction

Debuting in 1953 and released to the public the following year, the Rolex Submariner has undoubtedly become one of the most iconic timepieces of all time thanks to its legendary status as Rolex's flagship dive watch. Used extensively by the British Royal Navy and professional diving operations like COMEX, the Submariner set the bar for all dive watches to follow. Featuring a genuinely timeless design that has remained relatively unchanged throughout its history, the Rolex has become the archetypal sports watch. With very few large-scale aesthetic upgrades made to it over the years except for timely advancements like introducing a date function to the collection in the late '60s, and its modern cerachrom bezels, the Submariner is seen as the prototypical dive watch thanks to its consistency. The Submariner has earned its status as a legendary watch, with it today remaining as one of the most sought-after timepieces around.

Released around 1967, the Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 marked a change of direction for the famed Genevan watchmaker. While tool watches had long been Rolex's focus during the 1950s, Submariner ref. 1680 announced Rolex's intention to cater to a new, larger market. The ref. 1680's new date function marked Rolex's true recognition that their watches had become an accessory worn by those that did not need Rolex's impressive tool-watch capabilities but rather everyday conveniences. The first production examples of the ref. 1680 were denoted by their red "Submariner" inscription, which was later phased out for white text by 1973, in keeping with the rest of the dial's design. An essential piece of horological history, the Submariner ref. 1680 "Red" sowed the seed for what would become the archetypal Submariner – the Submariner Date, a fact that collectors continue to appreciate as the ref. 1680 continues to skyrocket in desirability.

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Grade

V 9.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Service Papers, Original Inner and Outer Box

Est. value range

$15,000 – $25,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

40mm

Model

Submariner

Movement

Self-Winding Caliber 1575

Reference

1680

Bracelet

Stainless Steel

Year

1972

Condition

Excellent

Material

Stainless Steel

Included

Service Papers, Original Inner and Outer Boxes

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL

The hands and dial luminous have aged to a perfect creamy shade. The Mk 4 dial is free from any visible blemishes or imperfections.

THE CONDITION

Case exhibits sharp chamfered edges that you seldom see in a watch of this age. The original bezel insert is also mint, with original tritium pearl.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

The overall condition of the watch is exceptional. The original bezel insert is in perfect shape and still retains its original pearl, with luminous that matches the dial indexes. Dial is mint, with hands that perfectly match the indexes. There are no chips or marks visible on the dial. Case and bracelet still maintain their original factory finish, and sharp chamfered edges with the most minor surface wear evident. The watch still has its original twinlock crown.

Note: There is a discrepancy with the service papers, which appear to be a mistake from the service center. The serial number of the watch is 2636150, which seems to be transposed on one service document as 260510. (The other number 2974203 does not correspond to this watch). This Submariner was sent to us with these service documents from the children of the original owner, and we have included them here for the sake of completeness.

Our Perspective

We consider the 1680 Submariner to be one of the foundational pieces of any vintage Rolex collection. This particular example, with its bold engraving on the back and mint condition, makes it an especially attractive example for any collector. The quality of this piece is exceptional - with beautiful chamfered edges and even retaining its original twinlock crown, this example is not to be missed.

Eric Ku

Co-founder