Introduction
First released in 1967, the Rolex Sea-Dweller was launched as an upgraded version of Rolex’s ever-popular Submariner collection. With an increased water resistance of 610m versus the Submariner's 200m and a helium-escape valve to alleviate pressure within the case during its wearer's ascent back to the surface, the Sea-Dweller was a dive watch truly built for professionals. Amongst its many variants, the ref. 16600T that we have here debuted in 1988 and saw the longest production periods out of any Sea-Dweller – 20 years, with its discontinuation in 2008 leaving room for Rolex to introduce the Deepsea. With its black dial and aluminum bezel, lack of cyclops date magnifier, solid end links, and comfortable 40mm stainless steel case, the Sea-Dweller ref. 16600T blends some of watchmaking's creature comforts, in its robust construction, with some pieces of vintage detailing like its bezel and old-style Oysterlock clasp that have enabled it to remain a truly iconic piece of Rolex design and engineering.
Offered as a customized creation by The Real McCoy's founder Hiroshi Okamoto to celebrate when he founded his speciality store called “Contraband," this example boasts a red "Steve McQueen" inscription on its black dial and a customized caseback that commemorates Steve McQueen’s iconic film ‘LeMans’. A reminder of The Real McCoy’s famed Chuck Yeager GMT-Master that celebrated the first pilot to break the sound barrier while flying his Bell X-1 on October 14th in 1947, this is a wonderful example of how a subtle customization by a third-party can create an even more sought-after variant of an already-famed and desirable timepiece.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
M 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$10,000 – $15,000
The Details
Brand
Rolex
Dimensions
40mm
Model
Sea-Dweller
Movement
Automatic cal. 3135
Reference
16610
Bracelet
Stainless steel Oyster bracelet
Year
1988
Condition
Excellent
Material
Stainless steel
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Black
THE DIAL
Featuring the signature black dial and black bezel combo that have adorned Rolex's dive watches for decades, the Sea-Dweller's most telling detail is the absence of a cyclops lens over the date aperture at 3 o'clock that features across the Sea-Dweller's sibling, the Submariner. Offered as a customized creation by The Real McCoy's founder Hiroshi Okamoto to celebrate when he founded his speciality store called “Contraband," this example boasts a red "Steve McQueen" inscription.
THE CONSTRUCTION
Measuring 40mm in diameter and just under 15mm tall, the Sea-Dweller ref. 16600 pre-dates Rolex’s move to make the Sea-Dweller a far larger watch than what inspired it, the Submariner, and hence retains a familiar presence on the wrist.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
The watch is in overall excellent condition. The steel case has some light scratches, including a small nick on the upper left lug edge. The case back has wear to the enamel infill of the Rolex engravings and features an aftermarket Steve McQueen commemorative engraving, along with a few nicks. The bezel is well defined with a visible scratch at around the 53-minute mark, while the insert remains clean. The dial is near mint, featuring aftermarket red STEVE McQUEEN text. The watch is fitted with a solid link Oyster bracelet with light marks and negligible play between the links. The bracelet currently fits a 7” wrist, and has 11 links, 1 of which is removable.
Our Perspective
A customized example of an iconic neo-vintage Rolex with an intriguing story of its own, and an equally intriguing story behind its customized dial and caseback, this Steve McQueen LeMans Sea-Dweller is The Real McCoy indeed.
Eric Ku
Co-founder
