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Lot #1186

Rolex Submariner 1680

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Introduction

Debuting in 1953 and released to the public the following year, the Rolex Submariner has undoubtedly become one of the most iconic timepieces of all time thanks to its legendary status as Rolex's flagship dive watch. Used extensively by the British Royal Navy and professional diving operations like COMEX, the Submariner set the bar for all dive watches to follow. Featuring a genuinely timeless design that has remained relatively unchanged throughout its history, the Rolex has become the archetypal sports watch. With very few large-scale aesthetic upgrades made to it over the years except for timely advancements like introducing a date function to the collection in the late '60s, and its modern cerachrom bezels, the Submariner is seen as the prototypical dive watch thanks to its consistency. The Submariner has earned its status as a legendary watch, with it today remaining as one of the most sought-after timepieces around.

Released around 1967, the Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 marked a change of direction for the famed Genevan watchmaker. While tool watches had long been Rolex's focus during the 1950s, Submariner ref. 1680 announced Rolex's intention to cater to a new, larger market. The ref. 1680's new date function marked Rolex's true recognition that their watches had become an accessory worn by those that did not need Rolex's impressive tool-watch capabilities but rather everyday conveniences. The first production examples of the ref. 1680 were denoted by their red "Submariner" inscription, which was later phased out for white text by 1973, in keeping with the rest of the dial's design. An essential piece of horological history, the Submariner ref. 1680 "Red" sowed the seed for what would become the archetypal Submariner – the Submariner Date, a fact that collectors continue to appreciate as the ref. 1680 continues to skyrocket in desirability.

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Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$12,000 – $15,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

40mm x 14.7mm

Model

Submariner

Movement

Automatic cal. 1570

Reference

1680

Bracelet

Stainless Steel Oyster bracelet

Year

1978

Condition

Very Good to Excellent

Material

Stainless Steel

Included

Watch Only

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL

Presented with a stunning MkII ref. 1680 dial, this example's luminous indices and hands have a rich creamy patina consistent with its age.

THE CONSTRUCTION

Presented in stunning condition, this example's once-black aluminum bezel insert has faded into a grey color that allows its slightly yellowed hour markers and hands to truly stand out to great effect.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in very good to excellent condition. Dial is blemish free and has a warm creamy patina with matching hands and bezel pearl. The "ghost" bezel has some wear (as shown), however the tone is even. Case is thick, albeit with some surface abrasions. 93150 bracelet bears the clasp date code of "VC", denoting its manufacture in 1978, consistent with the age of the watch. Band has 11 links in total.

Our Perspective

An iconic piece of the Submariner's history, the ref. 1680 belongs in any Rolex aficionado's collection with its gorgeous dial, aged bezel, and charming vintage construction, bringing plenty of character to the watch whether it's on or off your wrist.

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder