1/16
Sold For
$39,435 USD

25 bids

No reserve
Auction Ended
09/08/22
On Sep 8, 4:00 PM UTC
Lot #1633

Rolex Submariner 1680 18k Gold Black Dial

This auction is subject to a 10% buyer’s premium on top of final bid amount (hammer price).

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Introduction

Debuting in 1953 and released to the public the following year, the Rolex Submariner has undoubtedly become one of the most iconic timepieces of all time thanks to its legendary status as Rolex's flagship dive watch. Used extensively by the British Royal Navy and professional diving operations like COMEX, the Submariner set the bar for all dive watches to follow. Featuring a genuinely timeless design that has remained relatively unchanged throughout its history, the Rolex has become the archetypal sports watch. With very few large-scale aesthetic upgrades made to it over the years except for timely advancements like introducing a date function to the collection in the late '60s, and its modern cerachrom bezels, the Submariner is seen as the prototypical dive watch thanks to its consistency. The Submariner has earned its status as a legendary watch, with it today remaining as one of the most sought-after timepieces around.

Released around 1967, the Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 marked a change of direction for the famed Genevan watchmaker. While tool watches had long been Rolex's focus during the 1950s, Submariner ref. 1680 announced Rolex's intention to cater to a new, larger market. The ref. 1680's new date function marked Rolex's true recognition that their watches had become an accessory worn by those that did not need Rolex's impressive tool-watch capabilities but rather everyday conveniences. The first production examples of the ref. 1680 were denoted by their red "Submariner" inscription, which was later phased out for white text by 1973, in keeping with the rest of the dial's design. An essential piece of horological history, the Submariner ref. 1680 "Red" sowed the seed for what would become the archetypal Submariner – the Submariner Date, a fact that collectors continue to appreciate as the ref. 1680 continues to skyrocket in desirability.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$30,000 – $40,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

40mm

Model

Submariner

Movement

Automatic cal. 1570

Reference

1680

Bracelet

18kt yellow gold Oyster bracelet

Year

1974

Condition

Very good

Material

18kt yellow gold

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL

With its beautiful gilt nipple dial, this example's tritium luminous markers and hands have ages to match its inscriptions, creating a stunning monochromatic effect.

THE CONSTRUCTION

The first Submariner model to boast an 18kt gold construction, and a date window, the ref. 1680 marked the beginning of the modern Submariner as we know it as Rolex extended the collection into the consciousness of the everyday person looking for a robust luxury timepiece that would fit in with their daily life.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in excellent overall condition with thick lugs and no major dings or scratches. The dial and bezel insert are in excellent condition and have matching tritium hands, markers and pearl. Original fliplock bracelet in excellent shape with 10 links (One of which is removable). Bracelet clasp coronet is well defined and there is little stretch.

Our Perspective

With its stunning 18kt gold construction, wonderful gilt nipple dial and beautifully aged luminous, this example is certainly deserving of the Rolex coronet that sits atop its display.

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder