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Lot #5152

Rolex Submariner 1680 18K YG "Non-Date Conversion"

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Introduction

Introduced in 1969, the Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 marked a pivotal moment in the collection's history as the first Submariner to feature a date display. Produced in both stainless steel and 18k yellow gold, the precious metal version elevated Rolex's professional dive watch into the luxury sports watch category, while retaining the robust construction and timeless design that had already made the Submariner an icon. Early yellow gold examples were fitted with the distinctive matte black "nipple" dial, featuring applied gold hour markers that became a defining characteristic of the reference.

Offered here is an exceptionally unusual interpretation of the ref. 1680. Dating to 1971, this watch has been transformed into a striking no-date aesthetic through the installation of a period-correct matte black Rolex ref. 5513 feet-first, non-serif dial, while retaining its original yellow gold hands. The look is completed by a domed T19 crystal in place of the original Cyclops crystal and a stainless steel Submariner bezel insert with silver numerals, creating the appearance of a yellow gold no-date Submariner, a configuration Rolex itself never produced. Importantly, the watch is accompanied by its original yellow gold "nipple" dial, allowing the next owner to return it to its factory specification if desired.

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Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Original Black 1680 Gold Dial

Est. value range

$20,000 – $30,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

40mm

Model

Submariner

Movement

Automatic Rolex cal. 1575

Reference

1680

Bracelet

Leather strap

Year

1971

Condition

Excellent

Material

18K Yellow Gold

Included

Original Dial

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL

THE DIAL

Rather than its original yellow gold "nipple" dial, this watch is fitted with a period-correct matte black Rolex ref. 5513 feet-first, non-serif dial. Combined with the original yellow gold hands, it creates the fascinating illusion of a factory-produced yellow gold no-date Submariner, one of the most unusual and visually striking vintage Submariner configurations imaginable.

THE CONSTRUCTION

THE CONSTRUCTION

Further enhancing the no-date appearance, the watch is fitted with a domed T19 acrylic crystal in place of the original Cyclops crystal and a stainless steel Submariner bezel insert with silver numerals rather than the gold version fitted to the 1680. Together, these carefully considered period-correct components create a remarkably cohesive aesthetic while remaining entirely reversible thanks to the inclusion of the original dial.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The 18K yellow gold case shows surface scratches, small nicks, and marks from strap changes. The case retains well-defined hallmarks and stamps to the rear of the lugs. The original no-dots Triplock winding crown is still present. The yellow gold bezel remains well defined, while the black and silver insert is clean and no longer has a luminous pearl. The matte black Rolex 5513 dial is in excellent condition, and the yellow gold hands remain very clean. There are scratches to the acrylic crystal. It is fitted with a brown leather strap with 18K yellow gold trim pieces and a gold-plated Rolex pin buckle. Comes with the original black Rolex reference 1680 nipple dial, which remains in excellent condition.

Our Perspective

This is not simply a modified Submariner, it is an intriguing "what if?" from Rolex history. By combining period-correct Rolex components, the watch convincingly creates a yellow gold no-date Submariner that never officially existed, while remaining completely reversible thanks to the inclusion of its original nipple dial. For collectors who appreciate individuality, originality of thought and vintage Rolex experimentation, it offers something genuinely different from the conventional 1680.

Eric Ku

Co-founder