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Lot #4980

Rolex Submariner 1680 MK4 Dial

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Introduction

Debuting in 1953 and released to the public the following year, the Rolex Submariner has undoubtedly become one of the most iconic timepieces of all time thanks to its legendary status as Rolex's flagship dive watch. Used extensively by the British Royal Navy and professional diving operations like COMEX, the Submariner set the bar for all dive watches to follow. Featuring a genuinely timeless design that has remained relatively unchanged throughout its history, the Rolex has become the archetypal sports watch. With very few large-scale aesthetic upgrades made to it over the years except for timely advancements like introducing a date function to the collection in the late '60s, and its modern cerachrom bezels, the Submariner is seen as the prototypical dive watch thanks to its consistency. The Submariner has earned its status as a legendary watch, with it today remaining as one of the most sought-after timepieces around.

Released around 1967, the Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 marked a change of direction for the famed Genevan watchmaker. While tool watches had long been Rolex's focus during the 1950s, Submariner ref. 1680 announced Rolex's intention to cater to a new, larger market. The ref. 1680's new date function marked Rolex's true recognition that their watches had become an accessory worn by those that did not need Rolex's impressive tool-watch capabilities but rather everyday conveniences. The first production examples of the ref. 1680 were denoted by their red "Submariner" inscription, which was later phased out for white text by 1973, in keeping with the rest of the dial's design. An essential piece of horological history, the Submariner ref. 1680 "Red" sowed the seed for what would become the archetypal Submariner – the Submariner Date, a fact that collectors continue to appreciate as the ref. 1680 continues to skyrocket in desirability.

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Grade

V 8

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$12,000 – $18,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

40mm

Model

Submariner

Movement

Automatic cal. 1570

Reference

1680

Bracelet

Stainless steel Oyster bracelet

Year

1972

Condition

Very good

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Featuring the elusive red Submariner inscription on its dial, this Mk4 Red Sub's hands and luminous markers have aged to a perfect creamy shade of warm ivory and give this example lots of character.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

Featuring a faded black bezel insert and a well-preserved case, this example's construction wears on the wrist beautifully and serves to showcase the early Submariner's design in an honest manner.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall very good condition. The steel case shows surface scratches and more noticeable dings to the crown side, particularly on the upper right lug. The case back displays surface scratches. The bezel has some nicks, while the insert shows scratches and some corrosion between the 35 and 45-minute markers. The dial remains excellent, with some discoloration visible in the lume plots at 12, 1 and 2. The hands are clean. It is fitted with a rivet-link Oyster bracelet showing surface marks, wear to the coronet on the clasp, and moderate play between the links. The bracelet is fitted with 11 links and fits approximately a 7¼” wrist.

Our Perspective

An iconic piece of the Submariner's history, the ref. 1680 belongs in any Rolex aficionado's collection with its classic dial design, faded bezel, and charming vintage construction bringing plenty of character to the watch whether it's on or off your wrist.

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder