1/20
Lot #3516

Rolex Submariner 1680 Red Meters First Tropical Dial

How do I bid? Start here

Introduction

Debuting in 1953 and released to the public the following year, the Rolex Submariner has undoubtedly become one of the most iconic timepieces of all time thanks to its legendary status as Rolex's flagship dive watch. Used extensively by the British Royal Navy and professional diving operations like COMEX, the Submariner set the bar for all dive watches to follow. Featuring a genuinely timeless design that has remained relatively unchanged throughout its history, the Rolex has become the archetypal sports watch. With very few large-scale aesthetic upgrades made to it over the years except for timely advancements like introducing a date function to the collection in the late '60s, and its modern cerachrom bezels, the Submariner is seen as the prototypical dive watch thanks to its consistency. The Submariner has earned its status as a legendary watch, with it today remaining as one of the most sought-after timepieces around.

Released around 1967, the Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 marked a change of direction for the famed Genevan watchmaker. While tool watches had long been Rolex's focus during the 1950s, Submariner ref. 1680 announced Rolex's intention to cater to a new, larger market. The ref. 1680's new date function marked Rolex's true recognition that their watches had become an accessory worn by those that did not need Rolex's impressive tool-watch capabilities but rather everyday conveniences. The first production examples of the ref. 1680 were denoted by their red "Submariner" inscription, which was later phased out for white text by 1973, in keeping with the rest of the dial's design. An essential piece of horological history, the Submariner ref. 1680 "Red" sowed the seed for what would become the archetypal Submariner – the Submariner Date, a fact that collectors continue to appreciate as the ref. 1680 continues to skyrocket in desirability.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

V 8

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$25,000 – $40,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

40mm

Model

Submariner

Movement

Automatic cal. 1570

Reference

1680

Bracelet

Stainless steel Oyster bracelet

Year

1969

Condition

Very Good

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Brown (Tropicalized)

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Boasting one of the most highly-coveted dials ever offered on the Submariner, this ref. 1680's red meters first dial would be enough to get any vintage Rolex collector excited, but with its gorgeous chocolate brown tropical color, this example is all the more exceptional.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

With its black aluminum bezel insert surrounding it, this example's tropicalized dial is even easier to appreciate. Offered on a riveted 1960-dated Oyster bracelet, this example truly epitomizes the vintage feel that only older Rolexes can offer.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in very good overall condition. Case shows moderate signs of surface wear, with visible scratches and marks along the surface. There is minor wear on the inner lug corners of the lower lugs due to wear against bracelet endpieces. Bezel assembly has a visible area of scratching in the upper left quadrant, and the insert is faded with minor surface wear and an intact pearl. The original tropical dial has aged to an even chocolate tone. The surface is excellent, with only minor signs of wear along some areas of the edge. The hands are matching in tone with the dial luminous. Watch comes on an earlier (dated 1960) Swiss rivet bracelet. It has 12 links total and fits an approx 7" wrist with minor stretch. Please note that while the watch ticks at time of cataloging, timekeeping is poor and a service is recommended.

Our Perspective

An iconic piece of the Submariner's history, the ref. 1680 belongs in any Rolex aficionado's collection. Featuring plenty of character along with its stunning tropical red meters first dial, this example brings plenty of character to its wearer's wrist.

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder