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Lot #5454

Rolex Submariner 1680 Red Submariner MK VI Dial

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Introduction

Few watches have played a more significant role in establishing Rolex's reputation for professional instruments than the Submariner. Introduced in 1953 and commercially launched the following year, it was developed as a purpose-built diving watch at a time when underwater exploration was becoming increasingly accessible. Its robust Oyster case, rotating timing bezel and highly legible dial established a design language that would influence generations of diving watches. By the late 1960s, however, Rolex recognised that the Submariner was finding an audience far beyond professional divers, and the introduction of the ref. 1680 represented an important evolution. Appearing around 1967, it was the first Submariner to incorporate a date display, combining the established functionality of the original design with an everyday convenience that would eventually become one of the collection's defining features.

The earliest examples of the ref. 1680 are distinguished by the word 'Submariner' printed in red beneath the depth rating, a detail that has given these watches their enduring Red Submariner nickname. Produced until approximately 1973, the red-text models are divided by collectors into several dial variations, each identified by subtle differences in typography and printing. This example dates to 1971 and features a desirable MK VI dial, one of the recognised configurations within the Red Submariner family. Its matte black surface provides the perfect backdrop for the contrasting red signature, while the luminous hour markers and characteristic Mercedes hands preserve the unmistakable appearance of Rolex's vintage diving watches. The 40mm stainless steel Oyster case is complemented by a period-style folded-link Oyster bracelet, reference 9315, fitted with 280 end links. Powered by the automatic calibre 1570, the watch combines the mechanical robustness of Rolex's professional models with the distinctive aesthetic details that have made the Red Submariner one of the most closely studied and collected vintage Rolex references.

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Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$10,000 – $15,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

40mm

Model

Submariner Date

Movement

Automatic Rolex Calibre 1570

Reference

1680

Bracelet

Stainless steel bracelet

Year

1971

Condition

Excellent

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL

THE DIAL

The matte black MK VI dial features the distinctive red 'Submariner' inscription beneath the white depth rating, with closed 6s. Its applied luminous hour plots, Mercedes-style hands and contrasting white printing provide the excellent legibility expected of a professional diving watch.

THE CONSTRUCTION

THE CONSTRUCTION

The 40mm stainless steel Oyster case features the familiar Submariner profile, with protective crown guards, a screw-down winding crown and a solid screw-down case back. Its acrylic crystal incorporates the characteristic Cyclops date magnifier, distinguishing the ref. 1680 from the earlier no-date Submariner models. Water resistance was originally rated to 200 metres, reflecting the reference's professional diving credentials.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The stainless steel case shows surface scratches and marks, as expected of a watch of this vintage, with signs of a previous polish. The case back shows scratches. The bezel remains well defined, with a very clean insert. The Mk VI Red Submariner dial is in near-mint condition, with a pleasing patina to the luminous hour plots. There is very minor wear visible along the edge betwee 55 and 60 minutes. The luminous material in the hands is a good match to the dial. The stainless steel folded-link Oyster bracelet shows surface scuffs and scratches, with moderate play between the links. The bracelet is fitted with 11 links and fits approximately a 7¼” wrist.

Our Perspective

The Red Submariner occupies a particularly important position in Rolex collecting, representing the earliest generation of the Submariner Date. With its distinctive MK VI dial, 1971 production date and folded-link Oyster bracelet, this example captures the character of one of the most desirable vintage Rolex sports watches.

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder