Introduction
Debuting in 1953 and released to the public the following year, the Rolex Submariner has undoubtedly become one of the most iconic timepieces of all time thanks to its legendary status as Rolex's flagship dive watch. Used extensively by the British Royal Navy and professional diving operations like COMEX, the Submariner set the bar for all dive watches to follow. Featuring a genuinely timeless design that has remained relatively unchanged throughout its history, the Rolex has become the archetypal sports watch. With very few large-scale aesthetic upgrades made to it over the years except for timely advancements like introducing a date function to the collection in the late '60s, and its modern cerachrom bezels, the Submariner is seen as the prototypical dive watch thanks to its consistency. The Submariner has earned its status as a legendary watch, with it today remaining as one of the most sought-after timepieces around.
Released around 1967, the Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 marked a change of direction for the famed Genevan watchmaker. While tool watches had long been Rolex's focus during the 1950s, Submariner ref. 1680 announced Rolex's intention to cater to a new, larger market. The ref. 1680's new date function marked Rolex's true recognition that their watches had become an accessory worn by those that did not need Rolex's impressive tool-watch capabilities but rather everyday conveniences. The first production examples of the ref. 1680 were denoted by their red "Submariner" inscription, which was later phased out for white text by 1973, in keeping with the rest of the dial's design. An essential piece of horological history, the Submariner ref. 1680 "Red" sowed the seed for what would become the archetypal Submariner – the Submariner Date, a fact that collectors continue to appreciate as the ref. 1680 continues to skyrocket in desirability.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$15,000 – $25,000
The Details
Brand
Rolex
Dimensions
40mm x 14.7mm
Model
Submariner
Movement
Automatic cal. 1570
Reference
1680
Bracelet
Stainless Steel Oyster bracelet
Year
1978
Condition
Very good
Material
Stainless steel
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Black

THE DIAL
Presented with a stunning Mk II ref. 1680 dial, this example's secret is its exceedingly rare Tiffany & Co. stamp. Signifying that Tiffany originally retailed the watch, these co-signed dials are an important part of the brand's history and make the watch bearing the stamp incredibly sought-after.

THE CONSTRUCTION
This example's once-black aluminum bezel insert has begun to fade into a grey color that demonstrates its age and status as a vintage icon.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in very good overall condition. Case is thick, with well proportioned lugs and surface wear. Bezel insert is slightly faded and discolored as shown. Tiffany & Co. signed dial is in near mint condition with no visible damage. The luminous is a light ivory in tone, with matching hands. Oyster bracelet is later than the watch, with the clasp code "S11" denoting 1994 manufacture. The band has 10 links total, none removable, and it exhibits light stretch.
Our Perspective
An iconic piece of the Submariner's history, the ref. 1680 belongs in any Rolex aficionado's collection with its gorgeous dial, aged bezel, and charming vintage construction, bringing plenty of character to the watch whether it's on or off your wrist.















