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Lot #3418

Rolex Submariner 16800 Matte Transitional Dial Retailed by Tiffany & Co.

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Introduction

Debuting in 1953 and released to the public the following year, the Rolex Submariner has undoubtedly become one of the most iconic timepieces of all time, thanks to its legendary status as Rolex's flagship dive watch. Used extensively by the British Royal Navy and professional diving operations like COMEX, the Submariner set the bar for all dive watches to follow. Featuring a genuinely timeless design that has remained relatively unchanged throughout its history, the Rolex Submariner has become the archetypal sports watch. With very few large-scale aesthetic upgrades made to it over the years except for timely advancements like introducing a date function to the collection in the late '60s, and its modern cerachrom bezels, the Submariner is seen as the prototypical dive watch thanks to its consistency. As a result, the Submariner has earned its status as a legendary watch, with it still remaining as one of the most sought-after timepieces around.

Released in 1979, the Submariner ref. 16800 represented a major upgrade to the previous Submariner, the ref. 1680. Considered a transitional model between the first Submariner Date and its modern counterparts, the ref. 16800 featured the new cal. 3035 movement, which introduced a quick-set date function and thus made it much easier to cycle through the date.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

M 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$20,000 – $30,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

40mm

Model

Submariner

Movement

Automatic cal. 3035

Reference

16800

Bracelet

Stainless steel Oyster bracelet

Year

1983

Condition

Excellent

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Boasting a jet-black matte dial, this example features evenly aged luminescent tritium paint on its hour markers that give this timepiece's display a vintage aesthetic. Co-signed by Tiffany & Co., the famed American jeweller and watch retailer, this timepiece was originally sold by Tiffany to one of their VIPs, and is part of the rare cohort of watches that collectors seek with retailer's branding.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

Featuring the Submariner's robust stainless steel construction and its iconic design, the ref. 16800 is considered a transitional model thanks to its sapphire crystal which marked the largest aesthetic change the Submariner had seen in a long time.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in excellent overall condition. Case has been previously polished, but retains thick symmetrical lugs. There is various surface wear visible, most notably some scratches and marks on the polished sides of the case. Bezel insert has faded to a matted grey tone with small surface marks visible. The luminous pearl is cracked and aged. The original Tiffany & Co. signed matte dial is in excellent condition. There are a few imperfections visible on the surface, most notably a couple of small marks between the 12 and 1 o'clock index. The luminous has aged to a light cream uniform tone, with a couple spots visible on a few indexes. Hands are imperfect with some discoloration. Watch comes on a bracelet with 11 links total, 2 of which are removable. It is sized to fit an approx 7 1/2" wrist.

Our Perspective

The ref. 16800 is an important piece of the Submariner's evolution from utility-focused dive watch to the robust luxurious timepiece we know and love it as today. With the incredibly sought-after Tiffany signature on its matte dial, this example is the ultimate collector's piece.

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder