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Lot #1112

Rolex Submariner 168000

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Introduction

Debuting in 1953 and released to the public the following year, the Rolex Submariner has undoubtedly become one of the most iconic timepieces of all time, thanks to its legendary status as Rolex's flagship dive watch. Used extensively by the British Royal Navy and professional diving operations like COMEX, the Submariner set the bar for all dive watches to follow. Featuring a genuinely timeless design that has remained relatively unchanged throughout its history, the Rolex Submariner has become the archetypal sports watch. With very few large-scale aesthetic upgrades made to it over the years except for timely advancements like introducing a date function to the collection in the late '60s, and its modern cerachrom bezels, the Submariner is seen as the prototypical dive watch thanks to its consistency. As a result, the Submariner has earned its status as a legendary watch, with it still remaining as one of the most sought-after timepieces around.

Among the several Submariner variants that have been produced, they all tend to follow the same logic regarding their reference numbers. Four-digit references belong to the original generation, five digits belong to the 2nd and six digits with the current 3rd generation, except one reference, breaks the rule, the Submariner ref. 168000. Produced from 1987 to 1987 during a period of just nine months, the ref. 168000 was a transitional Submariner reference that bridged the gap between the five-digit ref. 16800 and the newer ref. 11610. Perhaps the ref. 168000’s most important feature is that it is made from 904L stainless steel instead of 316L, which is what Rolex had used until the ref. 168000 and has continued to use ever since. An incredibly rare and important part of the Submariner’s heritage, the ref. 168000 is extremely sought after by collectors and with all things considered, you can see why.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

M 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$8,000 – $10,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

40mm

Model

Submariner

Movement

Self-Winding Cal. 3085

Reference

168000

Bracelet

Stainless Steel Oyster Bracelet

Year

1987-1988

Condition

Excellent

Material

Stainless Steel

Included

Watch Only

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL

Fitted with the Submariner's iconic black dial, our example's hour markers' and hands' luminescent tritium has developed a beautiful soft yellow color that is rare to find in examples due to Rolex's tendency to swap original parts with service parts.

THE CASE

When zoomed out from the dial, the yellowed hour markers and hands really pop against the pitch-black dial, aluminum bezel, and 916L stainless steel.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Overall condition of the watch is excellent. Dial has very pleasant cream toned luminous markers and hands. Watch was recently detailed, hence surface is free from any major dings or scratches. Lugs are symmetrical and thick. Bezel is in mint condition. Sized to fit a 6.75" wrist, however it can be adjusted. Total number of links is 11.

Our Perspective

An incredibly rare transitory reference, the ref. 168000 breaks from Rolex's convention with regards to its short production run and even their nomenclature - a strange occurence indeed for the brand obsessed with consistency.

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder