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Lot #5224

Rolex Submariner 5512 Gilt Dial

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Introduction

Introduced in 1959, the ref. 5512 represents one of the defining stages in the development of the Rolex Submariner. It established the crown-guard case architecture that would become fundamental to the model and, during its long production run, charted the Submariner’s transition from the gilt dials of the late 1950s and early 1960s to the matte configurations that followed. Unlike the closely related ref. 5513, the 5512 was chronometer certified, resulting in lower production and, on later examples, the characteristic four lines of text on the dial.

Dating to 1966, the present watch comes from the final period of gilt-dial ref. 5512 production. Its four-line dial combines gilt Rolex and Submariner signatures with contrasting silver-coloured chronometer certification text, while the “SWISS T<25” designation at 6 o’clock identifies the use of tritium luminous material. This combination of late gilt construction, chronometer specification and the classic 40mm crown-guard case places the watch at a particularly interesting transitional point in the evolution of the Submariner, immediately before Rolex moved towards the matte dials that would define the model for the following decade.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$10,000 – $20,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

40mm

Model

Submariner

Movement

Automatic Rolex calibre 1570

Reference

5512

Bracelet

Stainless steel Oyster bracelet

Year

1966

Condition

Excellent

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL

THE DIAL

This late gilt four-line dial combines gilt Rolex and Submariner printing with contrasting silver-coloured chronometer certification text. At 6 o’clock, “SWISS T<25” denotes the use of tritium, replacing the earlier “SWISS” designation associated with radium-era dials.

THE CONSTRUCTION

THE CONSTRUCTION

The ref. 5512 introduced crown guards to the Submariner family, establishing a case architecture that remains fundamental to the model today. Its 40mm stainless steel Oyster case, rotating dive bezel and screw-down crown created the template for subsequent generations.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The steel case shows scratches and surface marks, as expected of a watch of this vintage, with signs of a previous polish. The case back shows scratches and marks. The bezel remains well defined with a clean black insert. The gilt dial is in excellent condition, retaining a glossy finish and excellent luminous hour plots. Some very minor surface spotting can be seen. The gilt hour and minute hands show some degradation to the finish and spotting to the later luminous material. The seconds hand has been replaced at some point. The US C&I riveted Oyster bracelet shows surface marks and moderate play between the links. The bracelet is fitted with 12 links and fits approximately an 8” wrist.

Our Perspective

The ref. 5512 sits at a particularly important point in Submariner history, combining the enduring crown-guard case with chronometer certification and, in early examples, the warmth and character of a gilt dial. This 1966 watch is particularly compelling as a late gilt example.

Eric Ku

Co-founder