Introduction
Introduced in 1959, the ref. 5512 represents one of the defining stages in the development of the Rolex Submariner. It established the crown-guard case architecture that would become fundamental to the model and, during its long production run, charted the Submariner's transition from the glossy gilt dials of the late 1950s and early 1960s to the matte configurations that followed. Unlike the closely related ref. 5513, the 5512 was chronometer certified, resulting in lower production and, on later examples, the characteristic four lines of text on the dial.
Dating to 1966, the present watch comes from the final period of gilt-dial ref. 5512 production, but its most compelling feature is what has happened to that dial over the intervening six decades. Originally black, the glossy surface has begun to develop some slight dark chocolate patches. Beneath that evolving colour remains the distinctive late gilt configuration, combining gilt Rolex and Submariner signatures with contrasting silver-coloured chronometer certification text and “SWISS T<25” at six o'clock. The result brings together an important transitional Submariner configuration with the entirely individual character that only natural ageing can produce.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$10,000 – $15,000
The Details
Brand
Rolex
Dimensions
40mm
Model
Submariner
Movement
Automatic Rolex calibre 1570
Reference
5512
Bracelet
Stainless steel Oyster bracelet
Year
1966
Condition
Excellent
Material
Stainless steel
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Black
THE DIAL
This late gilt four-line dial combines gilt Rolex and Submariner printing with contrasting silver-coloured chronometer certification text. The glossy black surface has developed some dark brown patches with age, while “SWISS T<25” at six o'clock denotes the use of tritium luminous material.
THE CONSTRUCTION
The ref. 5512 introduced crown guards to the Submariner family, establishing a case architecture that remains fundamental to the model today. Its 40mm stainless steel Oyster case, rotating dive bezel and screw-down crown created the template from which subsequent generations of the Submariner would evolve.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall excellent condition. The stainless steel case shows surface scratches and marks, with a couple of nicks to the edges and signs of a previous polish. The case back shows scratches from a case back tool. The later Triplock winding crown shows some nicks to the teeth. The bezel shows some nicks, while the insert is reasonably clean with some nibbling to the outer edge. The dial lacquer surface shows crazing across the surface, with some brown patches and discolouration to some of the luminous hour plots. The hands have been relumed. It is fitted with a later solid-link Oyster bracelet showing surface scratches and moderate play between the links. The bracelet is fitted with 11 links, 1 of which is removable, and fits approximately a 7¾” wrist.
Please note: The watch ticks at time of cataloging, but timekeeping is poor and a service is recommended.
Our Perspective
The ref. 5512 sits at a particularly important point in Submariner history, combining the enduring crown-guard case with chronometer certification and, in early examples, the character of a glossy gilt dial. This 1966 watch is particularly compelling as a late gilt example, with areas of dark brown ageing adding subtle individuality to an already desirable dial configuration.
Eric Ku
Co-founder
