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Lot #1342

Rolex Submariner 5512 Meters First

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Introduction

Debuting in 1953 and released to the public the following year, the Rolex Submariner has undoubtedly become one of the most iconic timepieces of all time thanks to its legendary status as Rolex's flagship dive watch. Used extensively by the British Royal Navy and professional diving operations like COMEX, the Submariner set the bar for all dive watches to follow. Featuring a genuinely timeless design that has remained relatively unchanged throughout its history, this Rolex has become the archetypal sports watch. With very few large-scale aesthetic upgrades made to it over the years except for timely advancements like introducing a date function to the collection in the late '60s, and its modern cerachrom bezels, the Submariner is seen as the prototypical dive watch thanks to its consistency. The Submariner has earned its status as a legendary watch, with it today remaining as one of the most sought-after timepieces around.

Often thought of as the quintessential Rolex Submariner, the ref. 5512 is one the longest continually running Submariner references, with almost 20 years of production under its belt. Released in 1959 and discontinued in 1978, the ref. 5512, was the chronometer-certified counterpart for the ref. 5513. Rolex being a far cry from the brand we know and love today, they ran the ref. 5512 and the ref. 5513 together to appeal to as many customers as possible. With its chronometer-certification, the ref. 5512, was more expensive at retail and as such, sold fewer units than the ref. 5513 meaning it is a relatively rare watch even considering its long production run. Like most new releases, when the ref. 5512 was released it included some design changes from the references it replaced. These changes ultimately turned the Submariner into the tool watch we know today. Among these changes were heavier hash markings on the bezel for improved tactility, bevelled lugs for better wear on the wrist and the addition of crown guards to protect the winding crown - all making the Submariner ref. 5512 an improved version of the references it replaced and continuing the Submariner’s journey as the diving industry’s golden standard of dive watch.

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Grade

V 9

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$15,000 – $20,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

40mm x 12mm

Model

Submariner

Movement

Automatic cal. 1570

Reference

5512

Bracelet

Stainless Steel Riveted Oyster bracelet

Year

1968 (1,829,xxx serial)

Condition

Excellent

Material

Stainless Steel

Included

Watch Only

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL

Indicating its depth rating in meters first, this example was produced before 1969, which is when Rolex changed the layout of their dials to read feet first, which they still do to this day.

THE CONSTRUCTION

With its creamy yellow patina and jet black dial and bezel, this example's construction is in great condition and looks fantastic on the wrist.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

The watch is in overall excellent condition. The case has very minor surface wear, and retains sharp chamfered and thick lugs. The tritium in the hands and dial all match and are an even golden tone. The pearl in the bezel insert is a slightly lighter shade. Original twinlock crown. The original domed crystal has some surface scratches. The bracelet is a USA C&I band dated 1969. It has 11 links with very minor stretch.

Our Perspective

An essential step in the Submariner's journey, the ref. 5512 established chronometer specification as the collection's standard and added crown guards to the case, a now crucial element of its form and function. We particularly love the crisp condition of this example, from the sharp case to perfectly aged dial.

Eric Ku

Co-founder