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Lot #5351

Rolex Submariner 5512 Meters First Matte DIal

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Introduction

Few watches have played a more important role in shaping the modern sports watch than the Rolex Submariner. Introduced in 1953 and commercially launched the following year, it established a design that would become the benchmark for professional diving watches. Among the most significant references in its evolution is the ref. 5512, introduced in 1959 and produced for nearly two decades. It brought crown guards to the Submariner for the first time, creating the familiar silhouette that remains central to the collection today. Alongside its sister reference, the 5513, the 5512 helped establish the enduring formula of the modern Submariner, combining professional diving functionality with Rolex's increasingly sophisticated approach to precision and durability.

Dating to 1969, this example belongs to the desirable generation of four-line, chronometer-certified Submariners with a 'Meters First' dial, displaying the depth rating as 200m = 660ft rather than the later feet-first arrangement. This transitional period is particularly interesting to collectors, marking the gradual evolution of the Submariner's dial design during the late 1960s. Powered by the automatic calibre 1570, the watch retains the traditional 40mm Oyster case, black rotating diving bezel and domed acrylic crystal that define the vintage Submariner aesthetic.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$8,000 – $12,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

40mm

Model

Submariner

Movement

Automatic Rolex calibre 1570

Reference

5512

Bracelet

Steel Oyster Bracelet

Year

1969

Condition

Excellent

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL

THE DIAL

The black matte dial features the desirable four-line chronometer designation and an early 'Meters First' depth rating, with 200 metres preceding 660 feet. Luminous hour markers and Mercedes-style hands retain an even golden tone, while the restrained white printing reflects the functional aesthetic of Rolex's professional diving watches of the period.

THE CONSTRUCTION

THE CONSTRUCTION

The 40mm stainless steel Oyster case features protective crown guards, substantial bevelled lugs and a screw-down Twinlock winding crown. A black unidirectional rotating diving bezel and domed acrylic crystal complete the classic vintage Submariner profile.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The stainless steel case shows surface scratches and marks, with signs of a previous polish. The case back shows scratches and small nicks. The bezel is well defined and fitted with a clean later insert featuring an aftermarket luminous pip. The matte dial is in excellent condition, with clean luminous hour plots. The hands are later service replacements. The Rolex folded-link Oyster reference 9315 bracelet with reference 380 end links shows surface scratches and light play between the links. The bracelet is fitted with 12 links and fits approximately an 8” wrist.

Our Perspective

The ref. 5512 occupies an important position in Submariner history, introducing the crown-guard case design that would define subsequent generations while establishing the chronometer-certified specification that distinguished it from the more numerous ref. 5513. It captures the Submariner at a fascinating point in its evolution, when the design had matured into the archetypal Rolex sports watch while retaining the character of its earliest professional predecessors.

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder