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Lot #5374

Rolex Submariner 5513 Gilt Dial

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Introduction

Few watches have influenced the development of the modern sports watch as profoundly as the Rolex Submariner. Introduced in 1953 and presented publicly the following year, the Submariner established a design language that would become synonymous with professional diving watches. Its rotating timing bezel, highly legible dial and robust Oyster case provided a practical combination of features that appealed to professional divers and enthusiasts alike. Introduced in 1962, the ref. 5513 would become one of the longest-running references in the Submariner's history, remaining in production until 1988. Unlike its chronometer-certified sibling, the ref. 5512, the 5513 featured a simpler two-line dial, giving it a particularly clean and balanced appearance.

Dating to 1964, this ref. 5513 belongs to the desirable early generation of gilt-dial Submariners, produced before Rolex transitioned to matte dials with white printed inscriptions during the second half of the 1960s. These early examples are distinguished by their glossy black dial surfaces and gilt lettering, created through a manufacturing process that allows the underlying metallic finish to show through the black lacquer. The resulting contrast gives the dial a depth and warmth quite different from later matte examples. Housed in the familiar 40mm stainless steel Oyster case and powered by the automatic calibre 1520, this watch captures an important period in the evolution of the Submariner.

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Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$8,000 – $12,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

40mm

Model

Submariner

Movement

Automatic Rolex calibre 1520

Reference

5513

Bracelet

Steel rivet link Oyster bracelet

Year

1964

Condition

Excellent

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL

THE DIAL

The glossy black gilt dial features gold-coloured inscriptions and the classic two-line Submariner signature, characteristic of early ref. 5513 examples. Produced using a galvanic printing process, the dial has a distinctive depth and reflective quality that sets it apart from later matte versions. Its luminous hour markers and gilt Mercedes-style hands retain the familiar Submariner layout.

THE CONSTRUCTION

THE CONSTRUCTION

The 40mm stainless steel Oyster case features a screw-down crown, screw-down case back and rotating dive bezel. Its substantial lugs and protective crown guards reflect the established design of the early Submariner, while the domed acrylic crystal contributes to its characteristic vintage profile. This example is fitted with a period correct rivet-link stainless steel Oyster bracelet.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The stainless steel case shows surface scratches and small nicks, as expected of a vintage tool watch, with signs of a previous polish. The case back features a personal engraving. The bezel is well defined, while the insert is in near-mint condition. The original ‘no dots’ Twinlock winding crown remains present. The black glossy gilt dial is in excellent condition, with some abrading to the luminous hour plot at 12 o’clock and various small imperfections on some of the other lume plots. The original gilt hands are in excellent condition, with some discolouration to the luminous material. The stainless steel riveted Oyster bracelet shows surface marks and light play between the links. The bracelet is fitted with 12 links and fits approximately a 7¼” wrist.

Our Perspective

Gilt-dial 5513 Submariners offer a particularly appealing connection to Rolex's formative years in professional diving watches. This 1964 ref. 5513 combines the warmth of a glossy gilt dial with the enduring proportions of the classic no-date Submariner, making it a compelling vintage reference.

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder