Introduction
Debuting in 1953 and released to the public the following year, the Rolex Submariner has undoubtedly become one of the most iconic timepieces of all time thanks to its legendary status as Rolex's flagship dive watch. Used extensively by the British Royal Navy and professional diving operations like COMEX, the Submariner set the bar for all dive watches to follow. Featuring a genuinely timeless design that has remained relatively unchanged throughout its history, the Rolex has become the archetypal sports watch. With very few large-scale aesthetic upgrades made to it over the years except for timely advancements like introducing a date function to the collection in the late '60s, and its modern cerachrom bezels, the Submariner is seen as the prototypical dive watch thanks to its consistency. The Submariner has earned its status as a legendary watch, with it today remaining as one of the most sought-after timepieces around.
Released around 1967, the Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 marked a change of direction for the famed Genevan watchmaker. While tool watches had long been Rolex's focus during the 1950s, Submariner ref. 1680 announced Rolex's intention to cater to a new, larger market. The ref. 1680's new date function marked Rolex's true recognition that their watches had become an accessory worn by those who did not need Rolex's impressive tool-watch capabilities but rather everyday conveniences. The first production examples of the ref. 1680 were denoted by their red "Submariner" inscription, which was later phased out for white text by 1973, in keeping with the rest of the dial's design.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 8
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$8,000 – $12,000
The Details
Brand
Rolex
Dimensions
40mm
Model
Submariner
Movement
Automatic cal. 1570
Reference
1680
Bracelet
Stainless steel Oyster bracelet
Year
1975
Condition
Very good
Material
Stainless steel
Included
Watch Only
Dial Color
Black
THE DIAL
Offered as a Submariner ref. 1680 from 1975, this example's beautifully aged dial belongs to the Mk. 1 classification of this reference following the change from red "SUBMARINER" inscription to white, as seen in the ref. 1680 from the mid-70s onwards. With three distinct dial versions used, the Mk.1's "L' in "ROLEX" was perfectly central beneath the Rolex coronet, the "SUBMARINER" inscription is exactly as wide as the depth rating below it and the depth rating's 6's are closed entirely.
THE CONSTRUCTION
Boasting a unique ghost faded aluminum bezel, this example's construction contains an unusual aesthetic that has become an intensely desirable look that vintage collectors have come to cherish over the decades.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
The watch is overall in very good condition. The steel case has scratches and nicks as expected of a watch of this vintage and has been previously polished. The bezel definition has softened, and the bezel insert has faded to a ghost hue while remaining in very good condition. The dial is excellent, with crisp text and pleasing patina on the hour plots. The hand lume is slightly discolored, with some missing from the minute hand. The solid link bracelet currently fits a 7 1/4" wrist and has 10 links, with moderate play between the links. It has some scratches, and the coronet on the clasp is quite worn.
Our Perspective
An iconic piece of the Submariner's history, the ref. 1680 belongs in any Rolex aficionado's collection with its gorgeous dial and charming vintage construction bringing plenty of character to the watch whether it's on or off your wrist.
Justin Gruenberg
Co-founder
