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Lot #5426

Rolex Submariner Date 1680 MK1 White Dial

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Introduction

Few watches have played a more important role in establishing the modern sports watch than the Rolex Submariner. Introduced in 1953 and commercially launched the following year, the Submariner was developed as a professional diving instrument at a time when underwater exploration was becoming increasingly accessible. Its robust Oyster case, rotating timing bezel and highly legible dial established a design language that would influence generations of diving watches. By the late 1960s, however, Rolex recognised that the Submariner's appeal extended well beyond professional divers. The introduction of the ref. 1680, the first Submariner to incorporate a date complication, marked an important evolution in the collection. Combining the established capabilities of the original design with the everyday convenience of a date display, the reference helped transform the Submariner from a specialist instrument into one of the most versatile watches in the Rolex catalogue.

Dating to 1979, this Submariner Date ref. 1680 belongs to the later generation of the reference, distinguished by the white Submariner signature that replaced the celebrated red lettering of earlier examples. Its matte black dial is classified as a MK1 white-text variant, identifiable through several subtle typographical details, including the alignment of the Rolex signature beneath the coronet, the relative width of the Submariner inscription and the closed sixes in the depth rating. These small variations have become an important area of study among vintage Rolex collectors, helping distinguish the different dial generations produced throughout the reference's long production run. The 40mm stainless steel case retains the classic proportions of the early Submariner Date, complete with its acrylic crystal and rotating diving bezel. Powered by the automatic Rolex calibre 1570 family and fitted with a stainless steel Oyster bracelet, this example represents a particularly appealing period in the evolution of Rolex's most recognisable professional diving watch.

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Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$8,000 – $12,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

40mm

Model

Submariner Date

Movement

Automatic Rolex Calibre 1570

Reference

1680

Bracelet

Stainless steel solid-link Oyster bracelet

Year

1979

Condition

Excellent

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL

THE DIAL

The matte black MK1 dial features white Submariner lettering, applied tritium hour markers and the characteristic date aperture at three o'clock. Its distinctive typography includes the centrally aligned L in ROLEX, a Submariner signature matching the width of the depth rating and closed sixes in the depth indication. The luminous hour markers have developed a warm yellow tone, complemented by slightly darker luminous material in the hands.

THE CONSTRUCTION

THE CONSTRUCTION

The 40mm stainless steel Oyster case retains the familiar proportions of the early Submariner Date, with protective crown guards, a screw-down winding crown and a rotating diving bezel. The acrylic crystal features the characteristic Cyclops magnifier above the date aperture, distinguishing the ref. 1680 from its no-date contemporaries. Water resistance was originally rated to 200 metres.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The stainless steel case shows surface scratches and marks, with signs of a previous polish. The bezel is well defined, while the black insert remains reasonably clean, with some deterioration to the silver-coloured numerals and markings. The Mk1 dial is in near-mint condition, with a deep, rich patina to the luminous hour plots. The hands show some cracks to the luminous material in the hour and minute hands. The stainless steel solid-link Oyster bracelet shows surface scratches and light play between the links. The bracelet is fitted with 11 links, one of which is removable, and fits approximately a 7¾” wrist.

Please note: The watch ticks at time of cataloging, but timekeeping is poor and a service is recommended.

Our Perspective

The ref. 1680 represents a pivotal chapter in Submariner history, introducing the practicality of a date display without compromising the original diving-watch design. With its distinctive MK1 white-text dial and classic acrylic-crystal construction, this 1979 example offers enduring vintage Rolex appeal.

Eric Ku

Co-founder