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Lot #3190

Rolex Submariner Date 1680 Red Submariner MKV

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Introduction

Debuting in 1953 and released to the public the following year, the Rolex Submariner has undoubtedly become one of the most iconic timepieces of all time thanks to its legendary status as Rolex's flagship dive watch. Used extensively by the British Royal Navy and professional diving operations like COMEX, the Submariner set the bar for all dive watches to follow. Featuring a genuinely timeless design that has remained relatively unchanged throughout its history, the Rolex has become the archetypal sports watch. With very few large-scale aesthetic upgrades made to it over the years except for timely advancements like introducing a date function to the collection in the late '60s, and its modern cerachrom bezels, the Submariner is seen as the prototypical dive watch thanks to its consistency. The Submariner has earned its status as a legendary watch, with it today remaining as one of the most sought-after timepieces around.

Released around 1967, the Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 marked a change of direction for the famed Genevan watchmaker. While tool watches had long been Rolex's focus during the 1950s, Submariner ref. 1680 announced Rolex's intention to cater to a new, larger market. The ref. 1680's new date function marked Rolex's true recognition that their watches had become an accessory worn by those that did not need Rolex's impressive tool-watch capabilities but rather everyday conveniences. The first production examples of the ref. 1680 were denoted by their red "Submariner" inscription, which was later phased out for white text by 1973, in keeping with the rest of the dial's design. An essential piece of horological history, the Submariner ref. 1680 "Red" sowed the seed for what would become the archetypal Submariner – the Submariner Date, a fact that collectors continue to appreciate as the ref. 1680 continues to skyrocket in desirability.

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Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$10,000 – $20,000

The Details

Brand

Rolex

Dimensions

40mm

Model

Submariner

Movement

Automatic cal. 1570

Reference

1680

Bracelet

Stainless steel Oyster bracelet

Year

1972

Condition

Excellent

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Featuring the elusive red Submariner inscription on its dial, this MkV Red Sub's hands and luminous markers have aged to a perfect creamy shade of off-white and give this example lots of vintage character.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

With its black bezel insert taking on a slightly lighter shade of black through years of wear, this example's construction wears on the wrist as an honest representation of how these earlier Submariners aged.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in excellent overall condition. Case shows signs of previous polishing with with superfcial scratches and marks visible on the case. There is minor surface rust visible under the crystal retaining ring that can be removed easily by a watchmaker. The bezel ring has some scratches and mars visible, as does the slightly faded insert. The bezel insert retains its tritium pearl. The originl MKV dial is excellent. The luminous plots are lightly aged, and there are no visible signs of damage or wear to the naked eye on the dial surface. The tritium hands match the luminous plots but are discolored near the center post as seen in the images. The crystal has multiple scratches and marks on the surface. Watch comes on a folded 9135 oyster bracelet with a later Rolex clasp that has been replaced at some point. The band has 9 links and a divers extension and fits an approx 7" wrist.

Our Perspective

An iconic piece of the Submariner's history, the ref. 1680 belongs in any Rolex aficionado's collection. Featuring signs of age through its subtly aged bezel and slightly darkened lume plots, this example brings plenty of character to its wearer's wrist.

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder