Introduction
Initially launched in 1953, the Rolex Turn-O-Graph's release sparked an exciting turning point in the brand’s rich horological history. Considered Rolex's first serially produced tool watch, the Turn-O-Graph was iconic for its eponymous feature; its bidirectional rotatable bezel. Armed with such a useful function, the Turn-O-Graph was designed to measure and record time much like a chronograph. Marketed to international business travellers, the Turn-O-Graph was presented as a tool to perform quick calculations due to its bezel. As such, the Turn-O-Graph was chosen by the United States Air Force’s aerobic squadron, the Thunderbirds, to aid in their pilots' navigational calculations. Recognizing the opportunity, Rolex marketed the Turn-O-Graph as the "Thunderbird" in the North American market. As sales for the Turn-O-Graph began to decline following the Submariner and GMT-Master’s launches due to their similar design and heightened utility, the Turn-O-Graph name only remained in use until the early 1960s before it was discontinued. As such, original Turn-O-Graph references have become increasingly sought-after thanks to their brief yet meaningful impact on Rolex’s evolution as a watchmaker.
Offered here we have the Thunderbird ref. 1625, the last original Turn-O-Graph model to be given Thunderbird moniker by Rolex. Produced from 1959 until 1977, the ref. 1625 marked the bulk of Turn-O-Graph’s history as we know it, thanks to its long production run. Offered in a selection of metals from stainless steel with just an 18kt white gold bezel, full 18kt yellow gold, and even two-tone, as we have it here in stainless steel and 18kt rose gold (a rare configuration), the ref. 1625’s engine-turned rotating bezel and Jubilee bracelet combine to create an alluring timepiece that we can’t help but fawn over.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$5,000 – $10,000
The Details
Brand
Rolex
Dimensions
36mm
Model
"Thunderbird" Datejust
Movement
Automatic cal. 1570
Reference
1625
Bracelet
Stainless steel and 18kt rose gold Jubilee bracelet
Year
1968
Condition
Excellent
Material
Stainless steel and 18kt rose gold
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Champagne
THE DIAL
Featuring a beautiful champagne dial with equally beautiful gold hour markers and hands, the ref. 1625 that we have here is an intensely elegant timepiece that extends beyond its design as a tool watch and into the realm of pure luxury.
THE CONSTRUCTION
Boasting a rare variant of its two-tone construction, this ref. 1625 is made of stainless steel and 18kt rose gold construction and sits on an elegant Jubilee bracelet, making the Turn-O-Graph merge its functional design influence with Rolex's desire to create luxury timepieces that exist beyond their original use-case.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall excellent condition. The steel case shows surface scratches and marks as expected of a watch of this vintage. The rose gold bezel shows gentle wear to the edge, while the reeded sections remain well defined with some wear visible to the Arabic numerals. The dial shows surface marks and some degradation around the edge, particularly between ten and twelve o’clock, as well as in other areas, while the hands show oxidation and discoloration to the lume. It is fitted with a steel and rose gold Jubilee bracelet showing scratches, scuffs and significant play between the links. The bracelet is fitted with 23 links and fits approximately a 7¾” wrist.
Our Perspective
An iconic watch that is rich with history, due to the genuine impact it has had on Rolex's evolution as a watchmaker, the ref. 1625 Thunderbird is the unsung hero of Rolex's historical tool-watch offering, on account of it being the basis for models like the Submariner, GMT-Master, and more.
Eric Ku
Co-founder
