Released in 1992 as the first all-new watch since the Daytona in 1963, the Yacht-Master was Rolex’s solution to creating a luxury-orientated version of their tool-watch-specific Submariner collection. Taking the Submariner’s dive watch credentials, the Yacht-Master introduced some subtle design details that set it apart as a yachting watch with a sporty yet luxurious aesthetic. To achieve this, Rolex gave the Yacht-Master bigger hands, more prominent hour markers, smoother edges with finer beveling, and a solid bi-directional metal bezel with an engraved inlay that, while functional, provided a fashionable statement on the wrist as the bezel caught the light. Starting the collection with the ref. 16628, the Yacht-Master began life as a yellow gold timepiece with the same movement as the Submariner and Sea-Dweller. Furthermore, Rolex introduced a lady’s version and a mid-sized variant two years later in 1994, which is what we have here, the mid-sized 35mm 18kt yellow gold ref. 168628 with a mother of pearl dial. Capable of pairing with a dressy look or suiting a casual look, the Yacht-Master’s luxury-focused sporty design has become a significant factor of its appeal as collectors seek watches capable of being more than just one-trick ponies for very specific use cases.

An iconic watch that has still only been around for a short period in the grand scheme of things, it is interesting to see just how much the Rolex Yachmaster has gripped collectors with its luxury-focused eye for fashionable design pairing well with Haute Horlogerie and Rolex's desire to be the best in the business.