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Lot #1539

Tudor Submariner 79090

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Introduction

Debuting in 1954, the Tudor Submariner set out on its journey as a more affordable version of the Rolex Submariner, which had been released the year prior, in keeping with Tudor's original ethos. A legendary watch thanks to its ties to the French Navy amongst other military forces, the Tudor Submariner's history as one of the most widely issued military dive watches speaks for itself. Keen to produce just as high-quality a product as their sibling, Tudor fitted the Submariner with OEM Rolex parts throughout its construction, except for its third-party movement. As one of the later references, the Submariner ref. 79090 features the most modern movement of any Tudor Submariner within its 40mm stainless steel case, the high-grade ETA cal. 2824-2. Renowned as perhaps one of the most robust and widely used automatic movements ever, the ETA 2824-2 featured in various Tudor models for over 30 years – a true testament to its quality. Fitted with a Rolex Triplock crown and flip-lock clasp, the ref. 79090 is a stunning timepiece that harbors some of the modern creature comforts we ask of our watches while still retaining a vintage feel. This is thanks to its anodized aluminum bezel insert, hollow end links, and hollow center links, all design details that are quickly fading from modern horology.

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Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$5,000 – $7,000

The Details

Brand

Tudor

Dimensions

40mm

Model

Submariner

Movement

Self-Winding ETA Caliber 2824-2

Reference

79090

Bracelet

Stainless steel Oyster bracelet

Year

1993

Condition

Excellent

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL

Offered in spectacular condition this example's matte tritium dial is in excellent condition with slighted aged pearly hour markers and matching luminescent hands.

THE CONSTRUCTION

Inarguably iconic, the Tudor Submariner's construction is complemented by its sharp-toothed bezel providing rich utility to divers timing their descent and ascent into, and out of, the depths.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall excellent condition. There is some superficial scratches along the surface, but case retains strong lugs and sharp edges. The dial is near-mint and has light ivory indexes that match the hands. The watch is fitted on a Tudor signed folded flip lock bracelet with 11 links total. There is minimal stretch on the band.

Our Perspective

By the early 1990s, Rolex had already moved on from the matte dials they had earlier used since the mid-1960s in favor of a more contemporary-looking glossy dial with white gold indexes, and most importantly, a sapphire crystal. Thankfully, Tudor was a bit behind the curve, and this 79090 from the early 1990s still has all the features that vintage collectors appreciate to give it a truly vintage design, construction, and aesthetic.

Eric Ku

Co-founder