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Lot #5092

Universal Genève GMT World Time 873.435

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Introduction

Few names occupy as important a place in twentieth-century watchmaking as Universal Genève. Renowned for landmark creations such as the Compax chronographs and Polerouter, the manufacture spent much of the post-war era at the forefront of technical and aesthetic innovation. Although the brand entered a quieter period during the 1980s and 1990s, it continued to produce a number of fascinating references that have only recently begun to receive the recognition they deserve from collectors.

Produced around 1993, the reference 873.435 is one of the rarest of these late-period creations. Limited to just 1,000 examples in black, alongside an exceptionally scarce white-dial version believed to number only 100 pieces, it combines the practicality of a GMT watch with the romance of a traditional worldtimer. A rotating city bezel works in conjunction with a 24-hour chapter ring to display the time across the world's major time zones, while its restrained 39.5mm stainless steel case makes it a remarkably wearable everyday companion. Combining genuine rarity with an increasingly appreciated chapter of Universal Genève's history, the reference 873.435 offers collectors an opportunity to acquire a highly unusual travel watch from one of Switzerland's most celebrated manufactures.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

M 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Box and service papers

Est. value range

$2,000 – $3,000

The Details

Brand

Universal Geneve

Dimensions

40mm

Model

Worldtime GMT

Movement

Automatic Universal Genève calibre 73

Reference

873.435

Bracelet

Leather strap

Year

Circa 1993

Condition

Excellent

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Box and service papers

Dial Color

Black

THE DIAL

THE DIAL

The matte black dial combines Arabic numerals with a clearly defined 24-hour chapter ring, providing excellent legibility while supporting the watch's worldtime functionality. A date aperture and central GMT indication complete a display that is both practical and balanced.

THE CONSTRUCTION

THE CONSTRUCTION

The 39.5mm stainless steel case is fitted with a rotating world cities bezel that forms the heart of the watch's travel functionality. Its restrained proportions, integrated bracelet and screw-down crown combine practicality with the understated design language that characterised Universal Genève during the period.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The steel case shows light surface scratches and marks. The case back retains well-defined engravings and has some light surface scuffs. The bezel is excellent, while the insert has only a few minor marks. The dial is in near-mint condition. The hands show some cracking to the luminous material, with some lume missing from the hour hand. It is fitted with a black leather strap and a steel Universal Genève pin buckle. Comes with 2026 service papers, a service box, and the original strap with its steel Universal Genève pin buckle.

Our Perspective

Late-period Universal Genève references remain one of the most overlooked areas of vintage collecting, and the 873.435 is among the most compelling examples. Produced in a limited run of just 1,000 black-dial watches, it offers genuine rarity alongside practical worldtime functionality and everyday wearability. As interest in Universal Genève continues to grow, references such as this provide collectors with the opportunity to explore a fascinating and increasingly appreciated chapter in the manufacture's history.

Eric Ku

Co-founder