Designed by Genta in 1954 when he was just 23, the Universal Geneve Polerouter is the watch that kick-started the designer's illustrious career. Launched to commemorate the beginning of Scandinavian Airlines Systems (SAS) flights from Europe to Los Angeles and New York, the Polerouter has aviation at its core, as referenced by its name. The routes flown by SAS from Copenhagen to LA flew over the North Pole, which shortened flight times between the two points from 36 to 22 hours, thus creating the name Polerouter. In addition to being named after its route, the Polerouter's construction was also influenced by this route, as the North Pole's magnetic force would wreak havoc on most watches and instruments in the plane. As such, Universal Geneve needed to make the Polerouter resistant to magnetism. One of the most iconic pilot's watches around, the Polerouter has grown a cult-like status amongst watch collectors as they fawn over its understated design and rich heritage linked to the dawn of transcontinental aviation. Offered here we have the Polerouter De Luxe ref. 10234-1 in 18kt pink gold with a color-matched salmon dial without any of Universal Geneve’s branding. Instead, the dial features the silhouette of Ibn Saud, the former King of Saudi Arabia, at 12 o’clock, with Arabic script at 6 o’clock. Boasting hands also made of 18kt pink gold, this timepiece’s display and overarching design is perfectly cohesive throughout.

An intensely luxurious watch, this 18kt pink gold Polerouter ref. 10234 showcases exactly why Universal Geneve was held in such high regard with its wonderfully executed case and artisanally-crafted dial depicting the Former King of Saudi Arabia, Ibn Saud.