Introduction
Designed by Genta in 1954 when he was just 23, the Universal Geneve Polerouter is the watch that kick-started the designer's illustrious career. Launched to commemorate the beginning of Scandinavian Airlines Systems (SAS) flights from Europe to Los Angeles and New York, the Polerouter has aviation at its core, as referenced by its name. The routes flown by SAS from Copenhagen to LA flew over the North Pole, which shortened flight times between the two points from 36 to 22 hours, thus creating the name Polerouter. In addition to being named after its route, the Polerouter's construction was also influenced by this route, as the North Pole's magnetic force would wreak havoc on most watches and instruments in the plane. As such, Universal Geneve needed to make the Polerouter resistant to magnetism. One of the most iconic pilot's watches around, the Polerouter has grown a cult-like status amongst watch collectors as they fawn over its understated design and rich heritage linked to the dawn of transcontinental aviation. Offered as a classic variant of the Polerouter, the ref. 20217-4 measures 36mm in diameter and is powered by the automatic cal. 138SS movement. Boasting a stainless steel JB Champion bracelet, this example makes for a wonderful wearing experience, with its black and silver dial presenting in excellent condition.
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Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$3,000 – $4,000
The Details
Brand
Universal Geneve
Dimensions
36mm
Model
Polerouter
Movement
Automatic cal. 138SS
Reference
20217-4
Bracelet
Stainless steel JB Champion bracelet
Year
Circa 1950s
Condition
Excellent
Material
Stainless steel
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Black

THE DIAL
Offered with a black dial, this example's dark central portion elegantly contrasts the silver chapter ring that surrounds it, for a remarkable effect on the wrist.

THE CONSTRUCTION
Offered on a JB Champion stainless steel bracelet, the Polerouter's 36mm construction is both elegant, thanks to its lyre lugs, and full of presence thanks to its modern sizing and the additional heft of the bracelet.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
The watch is in overall excellent condition. The steel case has some scratches and marks as expected of a watch of this vintage, but the case definition remains very good. The case back has a couple of more noticeable scratches, some wear to the UG crest, and very well-defined engravings. The watch retains its Universal winding crown in excellent condition. The gilt dial is in excellent condition with some light signs of aging, and the hands are reasonably clean. The watch is fitted with a steel JB Champion bracelet that remains in excellent condition and fits approximately a 7 1/4" wrist. Please note that the watch ticks at time of cataloging, but timekeeping is poor and a service is recommended.
Our Perspective
An iconic timepiece that has slipped under the radar for far too long, the Polerouter's well-deserved status as a horological icon has seen its stock rise to stratospheric levels, with watch collectors enjoying its beautiful design, rich history, and links to one of the biggest names in the industry.