Introduction
Designed by Genta in 1954 when he was just 23, the Universal Geneve Polerouter is the watch that kick-started the designer's illustrious career. Launched to commemorate the beginning of Scandinavian Airlines Systems (SAS) flights from Europe to Los Angeles and New York, the Polerouter has aviation at its core, as referenced by its name. The routes flown by SAS from Copenhagen to LA flew over the North Pole, which shortened flight times between the two points from 36 to 22 hours, thus creating the name Polerouter. In addition to being named after its route, the Polerouter's construction was also influenced by this route, as the North Pole's magnetic force would wreak havoc on most watches and instruments in the plane. As such, Universal Geneve needed to make the Polerouter resistant to magnetism. One of the most iconic pilot's watches around, the Polerouter has grown a cult-like status amongst watch collectors as they fawn over its understated design and rich heritage linked to the dawn of transcontinental aviation. In addition to being offered in excellent condition, this example also boasts a vibrant tropical brown dial, which only adds to its beauty and desirability.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$3,000 – $5,000
The Details
Brand
Universal Geneve
Dimensions
35.5mm
Model
Polerouter Date
Movement
Automatic cal. 215
Reference
204607/1
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
Circa 1960s
Condition
Excellent
Material
Stainless steel
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Brown (tropicalised)

THE TROPICAL DIAL
Initially offered with a black and white dial, this example's center portion has transformed from jet black to a soft brown that evolves to different lighting situations.

THE CONSTRUCTION
In keeping with most watches of its time, the Polerouter was a classically designed timepiece. However, as a result of its legibility requirement for the pilots wearing it, its case was a little larger than most other watches at 35.5mm in diameter.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall excellent condition. The steel case shows surface scratches consistent with age, while the case back displays a few small nicks and worn but still legible engravings. Serial and reference number are crisp and fully visible. The gilt dial has turned brown, and shows light surface marks along with small spots of oxidation to the reeded outer track. The hands have some spotting. The plastic crystal shows a number of scuffs along with some crazing. It is fitted with a third party strap and buckle.
Our Perspective
An iconic timepiece that has slipped under the radar for far too long, the Polerouter's well-deserved status as a horological icon has seen its stock rise to stratospheric levels, with watch collectors enjoying its beautiful design, rich history, and links to one of the biggest names in the industry.












