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Lot #5050

Universal Geneve Polerouter Deluxe 10357 18k YG with UG Signed Jean-Pierre Ecoffey Bracelet

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Introduction

Designed by Genta in 1954 when he was just 23, the Universal Geneve Polerouter is the watch that kick-started the designer's illustrious career. Launched to commemorate the beginning of Scandinavian Airlines Systems (SAS) flights from Europe to Los Angeles and New York, the Polerouter has aviation at its core, as referenced by its name. The routes flown by SAS from Copenhagen to LA flew over the North Pole, which shortened flight times between the two points from 36 to 22 hours, thus creating the name Polerouter. In addition to being named after its route, the Polerouter's construction was also influenced by this route, as the North Pole's magnetic force would wreak havoc on most watches and instruments in the plane. As such, Universal Geneve needed to make the Polerouter resistant to magnetism. One of the most iconic pilot's watches around, the Polerouter has grown a cult-like status amongst watch collectors as they fawn over its understated design and rich heritage linked to the dawn of transcontinental aviation. Offered here we have the Polerouter De Luxe ref. 10357 in 18kt yellow gold with a color-matched champagne dial that gives this stunning timepiece a wonderfully balanced aesthetic that is as timeless as it is elegant and an 18kt yellow gold hexagonal-link UG-signed bracelet made by the esteemed bracelet maker and jeweller Jean-Pierre Ecoffey who made similar bracelets for watchmakes like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

V 8

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$6,000 – $12,000

The Details

Brand

Universal Geneve

Dimensions

34mm x 9mm

Model

Polerouter De Luxe

Movement

Automatic cal. 215

Reference

10357

Bracelet

18kt yellow gold UG-signed JPE bracelet

Year

Circa 1950s

Condition

Very good

Material

18kt yellow gold

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Champagne

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Boasting a stunning two-tone champagne dial, this Polerouter De Luxe's display perfectly matches the color of the 18kt yellow gold that surrounds it.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

In keeping with most watches of its time, the Polerouter was a classically designed timepiece with twisting lugs and a large crown. Offered in 18kt yellow gold with an 18kt yellow gold hexagonal brick link bracelet made for UG by Jean-Pierre Ecoffey, this is a rare variant of the Polerouter indeed.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall very good condition. The yellow gold case shows surface scratches, together with more noticeable nicks to the case sides and bezel. The case back has some deeper scratches, and the serial and reference numbers are no longer visible. The dial is excellent, with light surface spotting, while the hands show light marks. The watch is fitted with a Universal Genève-signed Jean-Pierre Ecoffey bracelet, which has light surface marks and light play between the links. The bracelet is fitted with 20 links and fits approximately a 6¾” wrist. Links can be added or removed by a jeweller. There are 4 spare links included.

Please note: The watch ticks at the time of cataloging, but it is not keeping time and is in need of a service.

Our Perspective

An iconic timepiece that has slipped under the radar for far too long, the Polerouter's well-deserved status as a horological icon has seen its stock rise to stratospheric levels, with watch collectors enjoying its beautiful design, rich history, and links to one of the biggest names in the industry.

Justin Gruenberg

Co-founder