Designed by Genta in 1954 when he was just 23, the Universal Geneve Polerouter is the watch that kick-started the designer's illustrious career. Launched to commemorate the beginning of Scandinavian Airlines Systems (SAS) flights from Europe to Los Angeles and New York, the Polerouter has aviation at its core, as referenced by its name. The routes flown by SAS from Copenhagen to LA flew over the North Pole, which shortened flight times between the two points from 36 to 22 hours, thus creating the name Polerouter. In addition to being named after its route, the Polerouter's construction was also influenced by this route, as the North Pole's magnetic force would wreak havoc on most watches and instruments in the plane. As such, Universal Geneve needed to make the Polerouter resistant to magnetism. One of the most iconic pilot's watches around, the Polerouter has grown a cult-like status amongst watch collectors as they fawn over its understated design and rich heritage linked to the dawn of transcontinental aviation. However, while it is famed as a pilot’s watch, the Polerouter also welcomed other use cases into its repertoire, with a diving variant also being created, which is what we have here, the Polerouter Sub ref. 869109/01. Launched in 1960, the Polerouter Sub features a square-shaped 40mm stainless steel case with a black dial that features large blocky indices, thick luminous hands, and a pleasing red and white color scheme for its script. Boasting a black aluminum bezel insert for timing dives, this timepiece is a wonderfully functional take on Universal Geneve’s best-known watch.

The watch is in overall excellent condition. The steel case shows some scratches and light marks, as expected for a watch of this vintage. The case back has light marks, with all engravings still legible, and retains its original U-signed winding crown. The bezel is well defined, and the insert displays multiple marks and scratches. The black dial is excellent, with light surface marks and some damage to the lume plots, while the hands are generally clean with some discoloration to the lume. The crystal has multiple scuffs. The watch is fitted with a Universal-signed Gay Frères steel bracelet with surface marks and light play between the links. It has 26 links and fits approximately a 7 1/2” wrist.

An obscure subcollection of an iconic family of watches, the Polerouter Sub is a wonderful and whacky part of Universal Geneve's history as one of horology's most important watchmakers, at least through the middle of the 20th century.