Introduction
Best known today for its celebrated chronographs and elegant mid-century watches, Universal Genève also produced an extraordinary variety of dress watches during the 1970s and 1980s. As tastes became increasingly adventurous, traditional Swiss manufacturers experimented with unconventional case shapes, textures and materials, creating watches that reflected the more expressive design language of the period.
This unusual rectangular Universal Genève is a particularly charming example. Its classical Tank-style case measures a compact 32mm by 25mm and is finished in yellow gold plate, but the defining feature is undoubtedly its natural wood dial. The irregular grain creates a rich brown surface unique to each piece, while the absence of conventional hour markers or a minute track leaves little to distract from the material itself. A simple Universal Genève signature and two gold-toned hands complete the remarkably restrained display.
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Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$2,000 – $3,000
The Details
Brand
Universal Geneve
Dimensions
32mm x 25mm
Model
Tank
Movement
Manual-wind Universal Genève calibre 42
Reference
542139
Bracelet
Leather strap
Year
Circa 1970s
Condition
Excellent
Material
Gold-plated
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Brown natural wood
THE DIAL
The defining feature of this unusual Universal Genève is its natural wood dial, whose individual grain and tonal variations give the otherwise extremely restrained display considerable character. Devoid of conventional hour markers or a minute track, it is furnished simply with two gold-tone hands and the Universal Genève signature, allowing the organic texture of the wood to dominate.
THE CONSTRUCTION
Measuring 32mm long by 25mm wide, the rectangular gold-plated case follows the classical proportions of a Tank-style dress watch. Its clean lines and minimal detailing provide an appropriately restrained frame for the unusual natural wood dial, while the brown leather strap and signed gold-plated Universal Genève buckle complete its elegant period appearance.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall excellent condition. The gold-plated case is generally excellent, retaining strong plating, with the exception of some patches of degradation around the edge where the case meets the steel case back. The steel case back shows light surface scratches and retains well-defined engravings. The gold-coloured winding crown is in excellent condition. The wood dial is excellent, with some light fading to the printed text. The hands show light surface scratches. It is fitted with a brown leather strap and a gold-plated Universal Genève pin buckle.
Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.
Our Perspective
Vintage Universal Genève collecting understandably tends to revolve around the manufacture's celebrated chronographs, but its less familiar dress watches reveal a very different and often surprisingly adventurous side of the brand. With its compact rectangular case, beautifully individual natural wood dial and almost complete absence of extraneous detail, this example captures the experimental approach to materials and design that emerged during the 1970s and 1980s. Unusual, elegant and unmistakably of its period, it is the sort of Universal Genève that rewards looking beyond the brand's best-known models.
Eric Ku
Co-founder
