Introduction
Introduced during the 1940s, the Universal Genève Tri-Compax became one of the manufacture's defining complicated wristwatches. Its name refers to the three principal complications brought together within the watch: chronograph, complete calendar and moonphase. Despite the amount of information displayed, Universal Genève arranged these functions with remarkable balance, creating a design that became an important part of the company's mid-century identity and was produced in numerous configurations through the following decades.
Dating to the 1960s, this ref. 222100 belongs to the later generation of the Tri-Compax and combines a 36mm stainless steel case with distinctive twisted Bombay-style lugs. Its most striking feature is the silvered linen-finished dial, whose vertically textured surface changes character according to the light. Day and month apertures sit beneath 12 o'clock, accompanied by a red hand date and a blue moonphase display, while the remaining registers accommodate the chronograph and running seconds. Inside is Universal Genève's manually wound calibre 281, completing a watch that combines considerable mechanical complexity with particularly strong 1960s design.
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Grade
V 8
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Watch Only
Est. value range
$6,000 – $10,000
The Details
Brand
Universal Geneve
Dimensions
36mm
Model
Tri-Compax
Movement
Manual-wind Universal Genève calibre 281
Reference
222100
Bracelet
Steel Bonklip-style
Year
Circa 1960s
Condition
Very good
Material
Stainless Steel
Included
Watch only
Dial Color
Silvered linen
THE DIAL
The silvered dial is distinguished by its linen-like vertical texture, which gives the surface considerably more depth than a conventional brushed finish. Four registers and twin calendar apertures organise the complications, with a metallic blue moonphase display and pop of red on the date hand.
THE CONSTRUCTION
The stainless steel case measures 36mm across with an 18mm lug width, giving it relatively substantial proportions for its era. Particularly distinctive are the sculpted, twisted Bombay-style lugs, which add considerably more architectural character to the case while allowing the complicated dial to remain the visual focus.
TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall very good condition. The stainless steel case is very well defined, with surface scratches and some more noticeable nicks throughout. The pushers, winding crown, and correctors are all in excellent condition. The dial shows marks and scratches across the surface, with some degradation around the hour markers and the edges of the sub-dials, particularly the date and moonphase sub-dial at 12 o’clock. The central hour and minute hands show some spotting and discolouration to the luminous material. It is fitted with a steel Bonklip-style bracelet.
Please note: The watch ticks at time of cataloging, but timekeeping is poor and a service is recommended.
Our Perspective
The Tri-Compax demonstrates Universal Genève at its most ambitious. Few watches of the period brought together a chronograph, complete calendar and moonphase while retaining such a coherent dial, and this later ref. 222100 adds the character of its textured linen finish and sculptural lugs. At 36mm, it also has proportions that remain particularly wearable today, making it an appealing expression of Universal Genève's complicated-watch expertise.
Justin Gruenberg
Co-founder
