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Lot #5437

Vacheron & Constantin Teardrop Lugs Calibre 458 14K RG

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Introduction

The 1940s represent a particularly fascinating period in the history of Vacheron & Constantin, when the Geneva manufacture combined its longstanding traditions of fine watchmaking with an increasingly adventurous approach to case design. Although the company had established its reputation through complicated pocket watches and elegant wristwatches, the decades surrounding the Second World War saw an extraordinary variety of decorative lugs, unusual case profiles and sophisticated dial arrangements. These designs reflected a broader movement towards wristwatches as expressions of personal style, with precious-metal cases becoming increasingly sculptural. Among the most distinctive were the so-called teardrop lugs, whose flowing, rounded forms introduced an almost architectural quality to otherwise classical round watches. Such details have become particularly appealing to collectors of mid-century Vacheron & Constantin, representing a period when traditional Genevan craftsmanship was complemented by considerable creativity in design.

Dating to 1944, this Vacheron & Constantin dress watch is a particularly attractive example of the manufacture's wartime production. Its 14K rose gold case features prominent teardrop-shaped lugs, which curve gracefully away from the round case and create a distinctive silhouette. The silver dial is elegantly arranged with an inner railway minute track, applied rose gold hour markers and Roman numerals at the quarters, complemented by slender gold hands and a subsidiary seconds register at six o'clock. This combination of geometric detailing and traditional proportions gives the watch a character that is unmistakably of its period. Inside is the manually wound calibre 458, a beautifully constructed movement associated with Vacheron & Constantin's celebrated mid-century watchmaking. The watch is fitted with a matching rose gold bracelet, providing a particularly elegant complement to the case and reinforcing the distinctive jewellery-inspired aesthetic of the period.

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Grade

V 8.5

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$3,000 – $5,000

The Details

Brand

Vacheron Constantin

Dimensions

30mm

Model

Teardrop Lugs Dress Watch

Movement

Manual-winding Vacheron & Constantin Calibre 458

Reference

N/A

Bracelet

Rose gold multi-link bracelet (Not Vacheron)

Year

1944

Condition

Excellent

Material

14K Rose Gold

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Silver

THE DIAL

THE DIAL

The silver dial features a distinctive inner railway minute track, surrounded by applied rose gold baton hour markers and Roman numerals at the quarters. Slender rose gold hands complement the restrained two-tone composition, while a subsidiary seconds register at six o'clock incorporates its own finely printed track.

THE CONSTRUCTION

THE CONSTRUCTION

The round case is crafted from 14K rose gold and distinguished by its prominent teardrop-shaped lugs, which curve gracefully away from the case body. Their sculptural design creates an elegant transition between the watch and its bracelet, while the polished bezel and slender case profile maintain the refined proportions characteristic of 1940s dress watches.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in overall excellent condition. The 14K rose gold case retains good definition, with surface scratches and marks, as expected of a watch of this vintage. The case back shows scratches and retains a legible personal engraving. The enamel dial has been refreshed/cleaned at some point and exhibits some spotting and areas of degradation around several of the applied hour markers. The hands remain reasonably clean, although the minute hand may have been replaced with a yellow gold example at some point. The rose gold bracelet (unsigned, not Vacheron) shows surface scratches and scuffs and fits approximately a 6” wrist.

Please note: The watch ticks at time of cataloging, but timekeeping is poor and a service is recommended.

Our Perspective

This 1944 Vacheron & Constantin captures the creativity of mid-century Genevan watchmaking. Its sculptural teardrop lugs, elegant sector-inspired dial and matching rose gold bracelet provide considerable visual character, while the calibre 458 offers the mechanical pedigree expected of the historic manufacture.

Eric Ku

Co-founder