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Lot #2639

Zenith El Primero A386

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Introduction

Arguably one of the most famous chronograph makers in all of horology, Zenith is best-known for their El Primero automatic chronograph movement. From its status as one of the first automatic chronograph movements ever made (depending on who you ask) and the base movement to feature within the second-generation Rolex Daytona, the El Primero is certainly a modern-day icon. Launched in 1969, its incredible hi-beat rate, amazing accuracy and technical prowess ensured that any watch it was inside was one of the best chronographs money could buy. One of those watches was Zenith's own A386, the watch that we have here. Featuring a stainless-steel case with sharp polished bevels, a thin bezel and pump-style pushers, the A386 fit right in with the aesthetics of its time, while its mechanics were at the very forefront of horology and mechanics. Indeed, to let others know of its incredible movement, the A386 features a tell-tale hint at just what watch it is, its dial. Featuring a silver dial with three overlapping multi-colored subdials; navy, black and light grey, the A386 is immediately distinctive on the outside, just like it is on the inside – a fitting tribute to its status as a trailblazing timepiece indeed.

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Grade

V 8

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$10,000 – $15,000

The Details

Brand

Zenith

Dimensions

38mm

Model

El Primero

Movement

Automatic El Primero

Reference

A386

Bracelet

Stainless steel bracelet

Year

Circa 1970s

Condition

Very Good

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Silver

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Probably one of the most distinctive uses of color in watchmaking, the A386's multi-colored overlapping subdials are an immediately recognisable visual trait that reveals exactly what iconic timepiece this is. Furthermore, this example's aged creamy yellow luminescent makes its dial all the more visually appealing.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

Featuring a fittingly contemporary-sized 38mm stainless steel case, the A386 wears just as modern collectors have always cherished, but with a twist through its unique ladder bracelet - which was produced by iconic bracelet maker Gay Freres.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in very good overall condition. Case has wear visible along the surfaces, with soft surface scratches and a few minor dings present. The caseback serial number is worn but still visible to the naked eye. Original MK1 dial in very good condition. There is light spotting through the surface, with some discoloration on the edge of the subdials, particularly noticeable on the lower right quadrant of the minutes counter. Original central hands with "fat" subdial hands in excellent condition. The watch further retains its original inner tachometer ring with some spotting and marks, consistent with the dial condition. Watch retains its original "Large Circle" crown. Watch comes on an original Zenith ladder style band with 10 links total, and a clasp signed GF and dated 1971. There is light stretch.

Our Perspective

An iconic timepiece for several reasons, the A386 is correctly lauded as one of horology's most important timepieces thanks to its trailblazing movement, which would go on to power one of the best-known watches ever, the Rolex Daytona. We love the originality of this particular example, and its honest lived-with condition.

Eric Ku

Co-founder