Private Sale
Posted January 07, 2026
Item
Patek Philippe Calatrava 2526 Enamel Dial Herringbone Bracelet 18k YG Retailed by Gubelin with Extract of the Archives
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Introduction
Released in 1932 and named after the cross that the Calatrava Knights paraded around Spain and Portugal during the 12th and 13th centuries, the Patek Philippe Calatrava was released as a simple timepiece with broad appeal that would help secure Patek Philippe's finances following Jean and Charles Henri Stern's investment in the brand in the same year. Designed with a strict Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic in mind, the Calatrava used, and continues to use, simplicity as its means of establishing intrigue around the craftsmanship required to construct such a stunning timepiece. Without a complicated movement or a busy design, collectors gravitate towards the Calatrava's clean aesthetic and practicality, and the ref. 2526 we have here embodies that same design language perfectly. Launched in 1953 and offered as one of, if not the first, model to feature Patek’s first inhouse self-winding movement, the cal. 12-600AT, the ref. 2526 is one of the Calatrava’s most important references. Boasting an off-white enamel dial, the ref. 2526 showcases the best craftsmanship that Patek had to offer at the time – a fact reflected in the high degree of finishing used on the cal. 12-600AT movement.
Offered as the peak of technology for the time, the ref. 2526 also featured a screw-down caseback that granted a significant amount of water resistance to the model at the time – a large upgrade for a dress watch. Additionally, the ref. 2526 features a large, for the time, 36mm case that offers a wonderfully contemporary touch to the collection’s original 31mm case, as used by the ref. 96, which added to its ahead-of-its-time movement and screw-down caseback. Offered with its original 18kt yellow gold V-shaped bracelet made by Gay Freres, this ref. 2526 maintains a direct link back to its past through its Gubelin stamp that adorn its dial just below its central hand pinion and marks who originally retailed the watch all the way back on the 7th of February in 1955, as referenced by its Extract from the Archive.
Loupe This Scorecard
Grade
V 8.5
Status
Vetted & Approved
Included
Extract of the Archives
The Details
Brand
Patek Philippe
Dimensions
36mm
Model
Calatrava
Movement
Manual-wind cal. 12-600AT
Reference
2526
Bracelet
18kt yellow gold bracelet by Gay Freres
Year
1955
Condition
Excellent
Material
18kt yellow gold
Included
Watch, Box, and Archive Papers
Dial Color
Enamel

THE DIAL
Boasting an off-white enamel dial, this ref. 2526 features the Calatrava's signature dial design with its applied hour markers and dauphine hands. Additionally, this example also boasts the signature of its original retailer, Gubelin atop its running seconds subdial at 6 o'clock.

THE CONSTRUCTION
Offered on an unapologetically unique 18kt yellow gold V-shaped link bracelet made by Gay Freres and with a screw-down caseback, the 36mm ref. 2526 wears with a uniquely contemporary fit and finish on the wrist that makes it an easy watch to enjoy, even by modern standards.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.
Condition
Watch is in overall excellent condition. The yellow gold case shows some light scratches and marks consistent with its vintage, and the Double-P winding crown remains very well defined. The enamel dial is near mint, with crisp text and a clearly visible Gübelin signature. There are no hairlines or visible fissures on the dial surface. The yellow gold hands have some light scratches. It is fitted with a yellow gold GF made Patek Philippe bracelet with signed clasp, showing light surface marks. Fits approximately a 7 1/4” wrist. Comes with its original box and Extract from the Archives.
Our Perspective
Offering perhaps the most classical watch design ever created, the Calatrava has always been a timeless collection, however, with its larger-than-normal 36mm dimensions and screw-down caseback, the ref. 2526 is as timeless as they come, and with a unique 18kt yellow gold bracelet like this example, and a co-signed dial, this first series example is as stylish as it is timeless.







